Rim Sash Locks

Been looking for some of these to update my shed and the one next door. The sheds are brick with rather heavy doors (council house, 60 years old) in good condition. As the frames are galvanised steel there's not a lot that can be done to them and mortice locks are not feasible; also we'd like to keep the same holes so that it's not obvious that there's been a change.

I need 3-lever ones ideally but haven't found anything except Union at over

30 quid each!. Any ideas, please?
Reply to
PeterC
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to £7 a piece.

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

Those don't look like 3-lever locks to me - which is presumably why they say 'for added security fit in conjunction with a 3 or 5-lever lock' Unfortunately there's likely to be little choice if you want to keep the same holes and use a rim lock, as it seems to be generally assumed they're only used by people who don't care about security. I remember getting some of the better quality Union rim locks and latches some time back and they looked a lot more robust than the average, which is presumably why they cost so much. On the other hand, having recently replaced a Chubb (now Union) 3R35 locking latch at around =A3100 excluding the special door furniture and additional keys =A330 sounds like a bargain!

Reply to
docholliday

In article , docholliday writes

The 3R35 et al didn't impress me when I was looking for a deadlocking latch solution so I rigged up something with a union escape (sash) lock that is much more rugged and loads cheaper. The deadlocking is via a proper deadbolt but it is on a euro cylinder. Let me know if you want the details.

To the o/p, a 7quid 5 lever mortice sashlock can be surface mounted with a steel plate and a pair of wooden spacing blocks, not the prettiest but fine for a shed.

Reply to
fred

hasp, staple & large FO padlock?

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

They're 1- or 2-lever at best - plenty of those around.

Mine does have a 3-lever lock that was on the old front door, but there's only 1 key and my neighbour and I want a key each to each shed.

I'd be interested, please.

That's something that I'd considered; it would have to be a long case and fit the existing knob and key holes. Although it's about 20m+ to the road, the doors are visible from the road so we don't want any obvious changes.

Reply to
PeterC

Yup - that wouldn't be an obvious change! ;-)

Reply to
PeterC

Wasn't really thinking of it for your app but here goes:

The lock is a Union Euro Profile Escape Night Latch Sash Lock - L224402:

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used it as an morticed 'apartment lock', pretty much an unknown concept here but more common in europe. It gives you the automatic locking of a nightlatch without the weakness of rim mounting and supplements it with a solid deadbolt.

I didn't use the conventional handle holes at all, they were blanked off, and all access was controlled by the euro cylinder. This way you get slam locking and can withdraw the latch from the outside with the cylinder key. If you want to deadlock it then you can do this off the cylinder from the outside too. On the inside, a thumbturn on the cylinder can withdraw the latch or operate the deadlock.

Various other options are available if you use the handle holes but if you're using handles then I think a conventional sashlock would be more appropriate.

Be aware that the latch is just brass so not mega secure on its own but it is properly secure with the deadbolt. For proper security I'd also recommend a bolt through cylinder guard to protect the euro, they can be a bit flimsy.

Sorry, it is a bit more expensive than I remembered at 45quid inc vat before buying a cylinder and cylinder guard. A good cylinder is recommended as it takes a bit of effort to release the latch with the key.

Reply to
fred

I see. Thank you for the details - It's the sort of thing that I like doing, modifying something to make it work as I want it to.

Reply to
PeterC

You're welcome. If you consider doing anything similar there is a similar ASSA lock body that has a much nicer, beefier and longer throw latch that has an overall DIN4 security rating but I don't have the details of that one to hand. I used the union as it was readily available but would track down the ASSA if I was doing it again.

Reply to
fred

That's interesting - I have one of the Union locks I was thinking of using on my back door, but I mght have a look for the ASSA one. The 3R35 I mentioned ealier was for my Mother's house, and was intended to be a drop in replacement for one that she was worried about because one of the keys didn't always work, although I believe it was just a badly made key. Of course, we found that the original lock was so old that it had a different style case, and the new one needed a slightly larger mortice...

Reply to
docholliday

In article , docholliday writes

I had another look and the one I have data on is a '8720 Sash Lock' from an old Assa Euro pdf catalogue, unfortunately searching for that doesn't give any promising results on current data or sources. It had DIN 18251 Grade 4 security which was the highest level of that spec.

Here's a grab of the basic data:

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at other original Assa long style euro lockcases it appears that most retract the latch off the cylinder so blanking the handles holes would achieve the same result as my original but not all have as beefy a latch or are as officially secure as the old one.

The Assa Sash lock D455 has this feature but is definitely not as secure, only BS EN 12209 security grade 3 (from 7), whatever that means.

Assa compact lockcases which are dimensionally equivalent to our conventional UK lockcases do not have this feature.

If you do track down as source for the old 8720 or find a proper high security equivalent then please post back.

Reply to
fred

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