Can anyone help me find a RF Cylinder Thermostat.
I have found a danfoss model (CET B-RF) but I cant find a retailer who sells them?
Does anyone else make a rf cylinder stat (to avoid the wiring) - or anyone know of an online retailer for the item?
thanks
A bit OT but I wish such a gadget had been available when I had Cylinder stat problems a while back. Having unplugged the stat at the boiler end I removed it from the cylinder and then managed to drop it. Leaning into the airing cupboard with a steadying hand on one of the copper supply pipes I picked up the stat with the other hand. The pain of the shock was intense as was the surprise. It seemed to take an awful long time to overcome the muscle contractions to release my grip! Lessons learned 1. Never rely on someone's labelling 2 .Always switch off the mains supply when working on mains equipment in situ.
Richard.
In article , Richard writes
And make sure that ALL the mains in the house is RCD protected!...
With lots of exceptions, of course!
When you do get a shock, would you really want the lights to go out? Far more people are killed by fires when they can't see to escape than are electrocuted.
Christian.
Try Climate Center. These are one of the Wolseley companies like Plumbcenter etc.
They have branches but will take orders over the phone and ship. they have a whole load of Danfoss stuff and I am sure could order one of these
.andy
To email, substitute .nospam with .gl
Well I must admit for a few seconds I really thought my light was going to go out !
RCD or no RCD there is no safety better than hearing the satisfying clunk when throwing the main circuit breaker.
Richard. ( shaken but still stirring)
Many people manage to touch 230V mains. Vanishingly few are seriously injured by it. It's probably most likely to kill you if you are (a) unlucky, (b) old or infirm or (c) up a ladder.
Oh yes. I always do work with the main DP isolator off. I don't rely on an SP MCB to do the job. Except once (never again), when I illadvisedly left the power on so that my wife could complete some task. I then forgot about it, and rewired a live light fitting up a ladder. Luckily, my standard technique is to be so paranoid about shocks that I never touch the live anyway, so it was only after I had finished and put the bulb in that I realised that the power was still on!
Christian.
You may have difficulties using these. The tank and plumbing absorb an awful lot of the r.f. transmitter energy so placing the receiver to work reliably can be a nightmare.
Please don't dismiss the dangers of a 230 V mains shock so lightly. A brief touch or brushing contact is quite survivable in most cases. However the event I described was far more serious. In the hot and sweaty environment of an airing cupboard with moist hands, one holding tightly to an earthed copper pipe and the other in an involuntary tightened grip round a live thermostat is a different kettle of fish entirely. The effort of will to gather the strength to let go was nearly overwhelming. Don't go there it is not pleasant.
Richard.
There is an alternative product, the WP75-RF, which is a programmer for the hot water as well. This one has a remote sensor which you fit to the cylinder and then mount the main unit a little way away in the airing cupboard.
This would avoid most of the influence of the cylinder.
.andy
To email, substitute .nospam with .gl
What I meant was that the chances of death from electrocution are low enough to be dwarfed by the chances of death from failure to find the exit in a fire. Therefore, the statement that RCDs should be used to protect the entire house is not the safest method. It is safer not to protect the lighting circuit.
Christian.
Hi,
A neon screwdriver is useful in these situations, even if used to unscrew the supposedly dead terminals.
cheers, Pete.
On Wed, 09 Jun 2004 11:45:43 +0100, Pete C strung together this:
A neon screwdriver is never useful.
Oh I think it is sometimes. The problem is you can't always tell when it's being useful and when it isn't. If it lights up, it's being useful. If it doesn't... well, who knows.
My favourites were the older types where they would come to bits (they don't now) and you could replace those strange bits and pieces inside with, well, anything you liked really!
On Wed, 9 Jun 2004 12:20:16 +0100, "Bob Mannix" strung together this:
And also when it's illuminated but not actually in contact with any thing live. As a general rule; Neon on = Live, or possibly not, it depends. Neon off = Not live, or possibly it is, who knows?
In article , Christian McArdle writes
Quite frankly I'd MUCH prefer the house lights to go out rather than my lights!.
If you'd had the same experience as I once had you wouldn't even be arguing the point!....
In article , Lurch writes
No because like the original poster I didn't know quite what was lurking behind my bloody airing cupboard either!....
Maybe... I can see how it would give a false positive but not a false negative. I'd agree that it's much better to test connections with a lamp before starting work.
cheers, Pete.
Very easily. If the neon is broken for example or a poor connection, ...
.andy
To email, substitute .nospam with .gl
On Wed, 09 Jun 2004 21:28:42 +0100, Pete C strung together this:
Erm, because they're crap and don't work they could give a false anything. Don't use them, they're worse than useless.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.