retrofitting leds into mr16 fittings

I've got 5 12v mr16 spots on a ceiling. Each has it's own 240 to 12v transformer. A ll are controlled by a one gang switch.

I want to move to LEDs. I assume I'm best to remove the trannies and use one led driver for all the new leds, reusing the existing wiring - I hope.....

I'm not sure how the current ones are wired.

Is it likely to be anything other than a radial 'daisy chain' linking the fittings?

How would I test to be sure I'd isolated the old wiring from the other lighting circuits before I connect in the led driver?

TIA

Jim K

Reply to
JimK
Loading thread data ...

The old 12V transformers have a 230V input?

Reply to
ARW

/ The old 12V transformers have a 230V input?/q

I believe so yes, attached via a 90deg bracket....

Jim K

Reply to
JimK

Not often would recommend GU10 but wider range of MR16 LED in GU10 (mains) than GX5.3(LV) just remove the trafos and change the lampholder.

Reply to
Adam Aglionby

/ Not often would recommend GU10 but wider range of MR16 LED in GU10 (mains ) than GX5.3(LV) just remove the trafos and change the lampholder./q

Well yes I had pondered that route but there appears to be enough lv mr16s to choose from, and I thought gu10 LEDs were frowned on cos of poor heat di ssipation from crammed in electronics? That's why I thought one remote led driver powering the lot, then hit the rewire 'wall' and well hence my op.

They aren't downlights BTW, they are ceiling mounted mini spots, I've not l ooked yet but swapping lampholders on them may possibly take longer than an other route?

Cheers Jim K

Ps c'mon Adam what am I missing? :-)

Reply to
JimK

ns) than GX5.3(LV) just remove the trafos and change the lampholder./q

s to choose from, and I thought gu10 LEDs were frowned on cos of poor heat dissipation from crammed in electronics? That's why I thought one remote le d driver powering the lot, then hit the rewire 'wall' and well hence my op.

looked yet but swapping lampholders on them may possibly take longer than another route?

I wondered about this. My mum has a kitchen ceiling of 12V halogens that co uld do with replacement with LEDs, but it seems hard to find 12V LEDs and s he would like to keep the luminaires themselves.

The other issue is with LEDs and separated driver electronics. Separating t he drivers from the "bulb" with LEDs should be easier than with CFLs, and s ince its the integrated electronics that gets hot and dies, surely this wou ld be the way to go, especially for whole ceilings of LED spots. But is it easy to get "empty" GX5.3 style LEDs for use with separate drivers ? And ar e the drivers generic or specific to one make of LED ? Such a setup is not something you can buy off the shelf ! Although presumably it would be used in offices etc.

Simon.

Reply to
sm_jamieson

/But is it easy to get "empty" GX5.3 style LEDs for use with separate drivers? /q

Google 'mr16 led 12v' :-)

Drivers seem universal once rqd power of lamps is known...

Jim K

Reply to
JimK

ains) than GX5.3(LV) just remove the trafos and change the lampholder./q

16s to choose from, and I thought gu10 LEDs were frowned on cos of poor hea t dissipation from crammed in electronics? That's why I thought one remote led driver powering the lot, then hit the rewire 'wall' and well hence my o p.

ot looked yet but swapping lampholders on them may possibly take longer tha n another route?

could do with replacement with LEDs, but it seems hard to find 12V LEDs and she would like to keep the luminaires themselves.

the drivers from the "bulb" with LEDs should be easier than with CFLs, and since its the integrated electronics that gets hot and dies, surely this w ould be the way to go, especially for whole ceilings of LED spots. But is i t easy to get "empty" GX5.3 style LEDs for use with separate drivers ? And are the drivers generic or specific to one make of LED ? Such a setup is no t something you can buy off the shelf ! Although presumably it would be use d in offices etc.

There are plenty of MR16 LED bulb options around. There may well be simila r for GU10, but the thought of switching down from 230vac to less than 12vd c in that small a bulb base fills me with horror and I would avoid it.

As far as the OP is concerned my input is that I have a couple of the 4 li ght bar MR16 units (ex IKea I think) which have ended up in my workshop. I checked the voltage stability of their transformers under load and found t hem remarkably flat so have fitted both units with LED bulbs without a fail ure in 9 months. However two double MR16 holders in my hall were fitted wi th 3W LEDs fed from one electronic LED transformer and two of those bulbs h ave failed.

What did interest me is that these bulbs unscrew and I was a bit surprised to find an electronic controller inside. I haven't got round to finding if it's the LED element that's gone or the electronics, but it does give rise to the thought as to why I can't have one 'transformer' and inexpensive bu lbs which are LED only and no electronics.

Rob

Reply to
robgraham

d to find an electronic controller inside. I haven't got round to finding if it's the LED element that's gone or the electronics, but it does give ri se to the thought as to why I can't have one 'transformer' and inexpensive bulbs which are LED only and no electronics.

Probably because the LED(s) need constant current drive as their forward voltage is temperature dependent and the current drawn depends very strongly on the voltage supplied. Without the electronics a small change in supply voltage would cause a very large change in brightness - to the extent that the LED could be destroyed by a small excess voltage.

John

Reply to
jrwalliker

I bit the bullet and fitted 10 of these of these:

formatting link
range/item/h2-pro-uk

Reply to
DerbyBorn

/I bit the bullet and fitted 10 of these of these:/q

I don't have/want more down lights though....

Jim K

Reply to
JimK

Switch either has to have power looped through it or more likely there is rose or JB somewhere with the power loop through and switch drop. Thats weher be wanting to isolate and insert a single driver.

Reply to
Adam Aglionby

/ Adam Aglionby

On Monday, January 19, 2015 at 8:05:45 PM UTC, JimK wrote: -show quotedtext -Switch either has to have power looped through it or more likely there is rose or JB somewhere with the power loop through and switch drop. Thats we her be wanting to isolate and insert a single driver./q

Makes sense, I'll have to have a poke about & see what appears.

Cheers Jim K

Reply to
JimK

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.