Restoring old sashes

Howdy, previous owners unfortunately painted the sash windows shut. Particularly annoying in the bathroom where ventilation helps indeed. What is the best way to approach this? Call in someone or is there is way to do it myself - no particular skills present, just 10 years or so worth of diy. Getting fleeced by the plumber recently makes me wary of calling in the next workman...

Fred

Reply to
Fred
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  1. Use Stanley knife to cut paint where held firm.
  2. Remove beadings.
  3. Remove lower sash.
  4. Detach weight from lower sash.
  5. Remove parting bead.
  6. Remove upper sash.
  7. Detach weight from upper sash.
  8. Strip sashes and frame, using favourite method.
  9. Install new sashlocks, if required.
  10. Paint sashes and frame.
  11. Wax, rather than paint the sash sides.
  12. Inspect pulleys, replace if worn or sticking.
  13. Use new natural sash cord.
  14. Attach upper sash to weight.
  15. Adjust weight to suit (upper sash should hold firm, with a slight tendency to rise if shaken).
  16. Install upper sash.
  17. Install new draughtsealing parting bead.
  18. Attach lower sash to weight.
  19. Adjust weight to suit (lower sash should hold firm, with a slight tendency to fall if shaken).
  20. Install lower sash.
  21. Install new beadings (or reuse old if in good condition and can be bothered to strip).
  22. Touch up paintwork.
  23. Install new flitch plates, if required.

Parts available from

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Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

Keeping a firm hold on the sash cord and lowering the weight gently, not letting it crash down inside the box and watching the sash cord disappear through the pulley hole.

Colin Bignell

Reply to
nightjar

And I forget to mention taking the access panels off so that you can attach the new cord to the weights.

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

I prefer a paint scraper and light hammer blows.

Or pull the rope down fully and pin it to the frame.

Reply to
stuart noble

It's a bit of 'how long is a piece of string' question.

The windows may be perfect, and merely jammed with paint. Others have said how to fix this. I use the thin flexible scraper and hammer approach, as a knife may not get deep enough.

More likely they're in poor condition. They may be screwed up tight before painting - look for clues. Some of the wood could be rotten or worn. The sash weights could also be missing.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

I clamp it with Mole grips.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Running a knife between sliding sash and frame will usually do it. Dont use a stanley, the blade is too short and too stiff, meaning it winds up at the wrong angle damaging the wood. A cheapo wallpapering knife is more suitable, but the blade is weak so you have to make lots of passes not too hard, gradually cutting in.

In a lot of cases that will do it. Sometimes though there are other problems too. The list below is only necessary if there are much bigger problems.

NT

Reply to
N. Thornton

In message , Christian McArdle writes

Any particular reason for the 'natural', I used unnatural on the last one I did and it's been fine to date.

Reply to
bof

It doesn't stretch so much, doesn't suffer from UV damage so much and is easier to tie. Apart from that it looks much better, particularly in a period property. However, using nylon certainly isn't a disaster. It should work fine.

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

I used some synthetic cored stuff which looks like ordinary sash cord on the outside, although slightly thicker. Bought it over 25 years ago, and non has broken since. But I'm not sure of the life of the 'proper' stuff. It was pretty expensive, though.

Knots on it do have more of a tendency to slip if untreated, but I gave it a good blast with a hot air gun after tying them, and that seemed to 'set' the synthetic core.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Check out

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found painting my parting bead before I put it back in useful. So its try when you put the window back in.

Reply to
terryshamir

Hi fred

I have restored all of my down stairs sash windows and they look awesome now, its been a long job but well worth it.

Check out the following website:

http:\\

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bought these kits and they work a treat. The guy who sells the kits is extremely helpful too and the manual is a doddle to follow. The only real bit of skill required is to be able to use a router to route out a couple of channels for the draft excluding material. I had never used one before so I practiced on a bit of scrap wood and had no probs.

If you go this route mention my name and I may get a discount on my next order!!! :)

Cheers!

Richard

Reply to
Richard

UV stability. The other trick is to slip a natural sleeve over a synthetic core.

Reply to
Andy Dingley

That's pretty well what mine are.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

No word in the English language rhymes with month, orange, silver,purple

bumph, syringe, pilfer, burble.

NT

Reply to
N. Thornton

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