I wish to replace 95mm skirting board with 145mm skirting board. Some
advice please -
1. Once I have taken off the old stuff , I will need to back-fill the
now exposed brick - do I have to plaster ? Alternatives ?
2. I notice from postings that some people have glued skirting - is
this really going to work with 145mm stuff ?
3. Along one wall, I could lay a 4m length - is this wise i.e.
warping, cupping etc ? Do I need to acclimatise the wood as one does
when laying T&G flooring, for example ?
4. And as to using a Mitre saw to get good joins...
Thanks - will start when the rains come !
Why? Plaster doesn't normally go down to the floor for lots of
reasons. Since you are fitting taller skirting boards, there should
be no filling in required, unless you have pulled the plaster off too.
Personally, I would screw it, or nail it if you are confident at doing
It is always good to acclimatise wood. You might consider cutting it
all to the right lengths, and then painting it before fitting which
can make things easier. There'll be some touching up to do after
fitting of course. If you are going to need any filler between the
skirting and the wall to hide any unevenness in the plaster, then
this probably isn't worth doing.
No. Don't plaster to the bottom, or it will wick up any moisture or be
cracked when the floorboards flex.
No. Use screws if possible. Then your expensive and labour intensive work
cutting the boards isn't wasted when you need to remove the skirting to
install flooring or chase out electrical runs etc. Nailing is a right pain,
especially in hard brick or concrete block. Gluing doesn't handle warping or
uneven surfaces well. Both nail and gluing will likely lead to destruction
of the boards if removal is required.
It is best to. However, with enough screws, even a warped board will be held
flat. It is better to use a complete length than attempt to butt join, which
always looks pants.
Use a mitre saw for outside corners. Use mitre glue. This is a special
superglue that you get a perfect external corner with. For inside corners,
cut one board straight and scribe the other board to fit over it. You will
have a much better join with smaller, more fillable gaps that give you some
leeway on the exact board length, especially on the straight cut board.
Christian McArdle wrote in message <3f375d34$0$15038
The skirting should have a solid backing in case you have carpet fitted.
With voids behind it will cave in when the carpet is stretched
Sure it is. Gripfil is very flexible but you need to use it generously (one
cartridge per 4m)
I'm guessing this has already been done.
Nah, let the board sit where it wants and fill the gaps. If it isn't fairly
straight, take it back. There is no reason for quality skirting to distort.
Shrink it will, but twist it shouldn't. Trying to counter the stress in a 4m
board with fixings will only result in cracks.
What are the walls made of? Plaster and lathe, lime plaster on
brick, render/gypsum plaster on brick, plasterboard, or what?
This is quite important regarding what you may find underneath
and how you attach the new board.
Well, it may, but it is not my preferred method at all!
Yes, it is a good idea. I would NOT "acclimatise" the timber,
fix it down as soon as you get it in this case to minimise
cupping. Leave it there (fixed) for a bit before decorating.
No, scribe them (internal corners) or mark out and cut with
a panel saw (g.p. saw) (external corners).
Anyway, first, what are the walls made of?
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