Replacing ceiling boards.

It would still need holding up (screws or whatever) - the gripfill wouldn't hold it in place.

TBH with a cordless drill driver the screwing is an easy job once you have the board up and in place.

I knocked up a couple of them out of bit s of timber

The tape reinforces the joint - otherwise it will tend to crack along the joint. Done properly - the tape is bedded in/covered with filler and then sanded so it shouldn't be visible -

Reply to
Chris French
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To stop expansion and herds of elephants upstairs cracking the joint filler.

I haven't skimmed mine, but the taper edge is about 2½" along the edge of each board, so you stick the tape into the recess covering the join, then fill with tape and smooth across with a wide "scraper" giving about a 5" band of filler a couple of mm deep, then later sand it flat - does a good job.

At the ends of the boards (no taper) I chamfer them with a stanley to get say a ¼" V gap and squeeze the joint filler in, it's OK, but the edge joints are definitely cleaner and easier than the end joints.

Sorry picture came out a bit blurry, probably all the dust in the air, sanded with 120 grit, will re-sand to 320 grit before painting.

Reply to
Andy Burns

But it will *still* need skimming to make a decent job. OK, you *can* DIY it without skimming by using scrim tape and joint filler - but that's very time consuming, and it will *never* look the same as an all-over skim.

A good plasterer will seal the surface with PVA and apply a skim straight onto the artex. May not actually cost that much. I would recommend that you get one or two quotes, anyway.

My house was built in the 1960's and originally had stippled ceilings throughout. All the rooms which have been extended have plain ceilings in the extended parts - with the original parts re-skimmed to match. that was 13 years ago, and there haven't been any problems with the skim trying to separate from the Artex.

Reply to
Roger Mills

boarding's about 1/4 the price

NT

Reply to
tabbypurr

I paid a plasterer £150 for a similar job (3m x 3m bathroom). I don't think they get out of bed for much less - by the time they've faffed about with prep and mixing, a few m2 extra is unlikely to affect the price too much.

Looks good. It's one of the few things I don't mind spending money on.

Reply to
RJH

If you want a perfect ceiling, even new plasterboard will need skimming. Which to most means getting a pro plasterer in.

So you could save money and mess by just getting him to skim over the Artex.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

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Reply to
harryagain

I was surprised how cheap these are. If I had a room to do now, I would be inclined to get one.

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Reply to
newshound

Bet I'm a worse skimmer than you. And just as mean.....

Reply to
newshound

Quicker and easier to make a timber prob - and only a few quid if you don't have 2x half lying about.

NT

Reply to
tabbypurr

no, but its pretty close if you do it properly. Imho the key thing is not to do it in a way that needs sanding later, sanding filler on paper surfaced board is a waste of labour and never going to work well.

NT

Reply to
tabbypurr

I've done it on a small stud wall which only has a couple of short joins

- and it looks ok. But I spent ages faffing about with multiple thin layers of joint filler to get it to look right - and I certainly wouldn't want to do it with all the joins in a ceiling of a decent sized room.

Reply to
Roger Mills

effin nonsense

steve

Reply to
steve.n

Yes.

Reply to
ARW

Its possible to do it very fast.

NT

Reply to
tabbypurr

Now the OP either has asbestosis or he does not have asbestosis. And only time will tell.

Regardless of what he does to his ceiling will not cause asbestosis.

What he does to his ceiling may cause Mesotheloma or Pleural disease, to him of is familly.

Reply to
ARW

Maybe - when you've practised on a few hundred rooms!

Reply to
Roger Mills

Watch a vid of pros doing commercial premises, and copy.

NT

Reply to
tabbypurr

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