I'm going to be replacing a standard pendant light fitting with a
flexi-track LV Halogen system. The existing fitting is a loop-in ceiling
rose. The transformer on the LV lights is mounted on an inverted tray
baseplate which attaches to the ceiling in place of the rose.
Which is the best way to replace the rose? Using choccy blocks in the
void in the transfromer baseplate would seem the obvious way but would
it be a better solution to cut away a circle of plasterboard and screw
the existing rose directly to the joist, so it is recessed below the
surface of the ceiling, and then mount the transformer over it?
Not really, the transformer then would be wedged right against the
wiring and rose. I would use the connectors option, and sleeve the
leads with heatproof sleaving if it looks a little tight against the
Sorry, guess I didn't explain it too well. Here's a pic of the fitting
which, as you can see,
doesn't have a lot of room for choc blocks (the lip is 10mm high). The
rose on the other hand is about 15mm high, without the cover of course,
so if the plasterboard were cut away and it was screwed to the joist, it
would be be roughly flush with the face of the ceiling, giving 10mm
clearance to the plate. Plus, I could do it without removing all the
wiring, except to replace the cable to the fitting since it needs an
earth and the existing one is only two-core.
You could reuse the rose as you suggest. Though if I had acess to the
space above I would use a BESA box ( a round plastic conduit box)
Though these are deeper and would have to be fitted onto a piece of wood
I would fit a set of connectors behind the fitting, or if you can gain
access to above the fitting a junction box would be better. From there
drop a length of heat resistant flex into the fitting.
Although you could do what you suggest I personally wouldn't, it's
still a little close to the rear of the transformer.
OK, thanks for the help, I'll use connector blocks although I must
confess I don't understand why the rose would be "still a little close
to the rear of the transformer" when it will be a good 10mm, probably
more, away yet connector blocks will be sat on the transformer mounting
plate so will get even hotter - or is heat not the reason? If not, what
is the reason? I'm curious as I don't understand; I'm not questioning
your advice. Actually, the only reason I asked was because of the other
thread, "choccy blocks" where someone said their use had failed an NIC
inspection and people were debating the thermal issues.
The trick with fitting connectors is to push them up into the void
above the plasterboard. Then they are a good distance away, and behind
a sheet of plasterboard. Much better all round.
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