Need to replace a fitted gas hob but not the worktop.
Is the cut-out in the worktop standardised?
Does disconnection/connection require the services of a qualified gas-safe fitter to do the biz, or is it DIY-able?
When selecting the replacement hob (basic 4-burner, cheapish), what features are desirable to have or avoid?
No.
DIY-able.
We have an Indesit and the knobs just don't map intuitively to the rings.
In-laws have a Bosch and the poor design of the pan stands makes it easy for pans to overbalance.
Capn Nemo wrote on 24/09/2012 :
It is do-able by a competent person'. Most will simply plug into a gas bayonet connection.
The cut out in the worktop will likely be different, there is no standard. Features to look for are automatic ignition, with flame failure cut off. The high voltage spark ignites the flame, then senses whether the flame is lit before the valve will hold itself on.
We have just fitted a replacement stainless Baumatic 4 ring, to match an oven of a different make. She likes it :-)
The pan stands are very solid and positive, but like all gas hobs a small pan can be awkward to balance on them. I don't like the knob layout, they are in a row of four at the front. I have to look to see which controls which hob. At least on this one, the knobs do not get brunt by the heat spilling out from under the pans, as happened to our last one, where they were raised and down the right side, with a separate igniter button. On this one the knob controls both gas and ignition.
No, most will be a fixed pipe connection. Very few, less than 1%, will have a flexible pipe connection.
However, most will fit into an existing hole. They are pretty much a standard size, some slightly wider hole, but the footprint of the top is usually the same for all makes (plus or minus a few mm)
All have that nowadays, apart from the very cheapest ones. Anything over £100 is likely to have flame failure.
Ease of cleaning; pan supports that will actually support smaller pans.
Think you'll find only a movable appliance like a stand alone cooker may be connected via a flexible hose to a bayonet connection. A hob is fixed and should have rigid pipework to it.
Mine is fitted via a flexible hose, by the original installer. There's only drawers below it BTW, if that makes a difference.
By "should" do you mean "Must By Law", "It's Good Practice To", "It's Your Preference", "Without It You're Doomed" ...?
Dave Plowman (News) wrote on 24/09/2012 :
I think you may find that is wrong. It was discussed at great length in this forum not long ago.
I use one of these for my small pans -
The products I've looked at so far all require a cut-out that's standard-ish and within a few mm of the existing one i.e. 565mm x 485mm (ish).
Seems fairly standard on most hobs these days, unlike the old one. Requires a mains electrickery connection which the old hob didn't. Fortunately there's an existing supply outlet under the worktop within reach.
It is a point of confusion, not helped by the wording of the relevant British standard (BS6172:2010) which has changed subtly in recent versions. The current version basically says you can use rigid pipework, or flexible so long as the makers instructions don't forbid it.
In the broad sense, yes they are typically square and about the same size. The detail varies - you may need notches and cutouts for some that are not required or are in different places on others.
If its a hose into a fitting then it is certainly DIYable to disconnect and reconnect the existing hob. You may find that the new one comes unconnected to anything however, and hence you would need to fit the appropriate hose to it[1] to be able to plug it in. That then brings it into the realms of gas fitting. You can still DIY but only if you are competent to do so.
[1] Not an overly complex task - typically involving winding some gas grade PTFE tape (i.e. the thicker stuff - not the thin one used for water) on a 1/2" BSP taper male fitting[2] and screwing into the socket on the hob. Then testing for gas soundness. (there are other requirements for gas hobs like ensuring adequate room size and ventilation, but lets assume those are still ok as this is a replacement- see BS 6172 for full details)
[2] Like:Hoses - search for gas hose here:
Sensible layout, easy to clean, and watch out for fragile cast iron pan stands that shatter if the drop!
There are types which use a thermocouple sensor and will work without an electricity supply, if that's important for you e.g. you have an unreliable supply for some reason.
Thanks John.
The manufacturers' handbooks I've looked at state you can use a flexible connection with one or more caveats, none of which is a problem for my installation. A flexible connection makes sense for serviceability IMO.
Thanks again John, sound advice as usual.
I'm going to "get someone in" to do the gas connection but try to do the other work myself to keep the cost down. The replacment I have in mind should fit the existing cut-out. I can remove the drawers below to give good access.
Just need to sort out the electrickery:
Each appliance is fed from its own switched FCU above the worktop via a flex buried in the wall leading to a single trailing 13A socket below the worktop into which the appliance is plugged - ITSWIM. The cabinet next to the hob has such a feed for a freezer, so I plan to change its trailing socket for a double to provide a socket for the hob i.e. share the FCU with the freezer.
Anyone spot any problems with such an arrangement?
Servicing? On mine, any likely item which could fail can be replaced without removing the hob. Like say the ignition system.
Are there any flame failure devices which can be fitted to older hobs?
The principle seems fine. (the trailing lead and flex is perhaps sub optimal - but the FCU mitigates the obvious risk of the flex not being adequately fault protected)
I could well be wrong, but I thought that FFD is a requirement now for all hobs. It used to be just for flats.
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