Repairing a floating* floor (AKA: how to match T&G profiles)

[no_spam]

I've just been inspecting why a floor felt "odd" and it seems tht there's been a small long-term water leak that has gone between the (P5) chipboard and the DPM and rotted the chipboard from beneath. I've hacked out the damaged 2440x600 panels but the new (Faber) board has a different profile so there's a small step where it joins the old, and I'm unlikely to be able to glue it.

It seems my options are:

- find chipboard with the right T&G profile (who makes this stuff apart from Faber?)

- get a cutter made to match the old profile (sounds expensive)

- cut the T&G off the new and old chipboard and route a groove in both to fit a loose tongue (routing the existing flooring is going to be a pain!) - any other ideas?

*Floating floor: seems to be a concrete raft with polystyrene, then DPM then chipboard, with the pieces glued to each other ... no joists or other structure.

[no_spam]

No replies but, for the record, I've decided to remove the T&G profile from the old flooring and one edge of the new flooring, then to use a biscuit jointer to cut a slot for a loose plywood tongue, then to continue with the new T&G profile. I'll also remove some of the polystyrene so I can reinforce the joint with some 2x1. If anyone thinks this is a bad plan then please shout.

[no_spam]

In case anyone else is faced with the same task - it was easy. Rip off 50mm or so from existing floor using a small circ saw (depth set so as not to cut DPM) and finish ends near walls with reciprocating multi-tool, rip one edge off new piece of floor, use biscuit jointer (set to max depth) to cut a groove along both bits of chipboard, adjust and re-cut to get the slot the right width, squirt-in polyurethane glue, insert strips of 6mm ply and wack the whole lot together, trim glue. It gave a perfectly level join which should be stronger than the original T&G.

[newshound]

Only just read this, but FWIW a loose tongue was what I was going to suggest.