Removing the cylinder from the system

[Richard]

I have a boiler that can be set to pump hot water around the radiators heating)or a coiled tube inside the hot water cylinder (water).

I want to remove the cylinder.

I've been looking at the piping and the electrics.

I understand most things about the piping. I see how, when one actuator (HPA2) is open, and the other closed, water flows into the radiators, but not the cylinder coil. When the other actuator is open, water flows into the cylinder coil, but not the radiators.

Okay, I get that, but there is what looks like a special valve, it has graduated marks along the length, and water must, I think, pass through that irrespective of whether heating or water is chosen. I guess it's a kind of bypass valve.

Now, if I remove the actuators, and the flow is connected directly to the radiators (rather than through an actuator and all that plumbing associated with the actuators) I presume that that bypass valve MUST also be connected between flow and return to provide a minimum flow. Is this correct? I presume also that I must not change the setting of that valve.

I also presume that that bypass valve can shut of flow completely. I would have to shut off flow when taking the hot water cylinder out to preserve system pressure. Of course, later I would have to relieve system presure if I take the rest of the plumbing out associated with the actuators. TIA.

[Richard]

's a MYSON Automatic Bypass Valve.

I would have thought this is essntial for the system.

BTW, I would have to relieve system pressure just to take the cylinder out, because I see that there is no way to stop water coming out of the system when I decouple the bottom end (the return side) of the cylinder coil.

There a valve I can close on the flow side to the cylinder coil, but that on it's own it's not good enough to prevent release of system pressure.

I wish someone had put a valve on the return side of the cylinder coil. :c)

[Toby]

Is this removal permanant, or just for a while?

If is is not permanant, then you could just connect the flow and return to the cylinder coil together, and turn off the hot water on your programmer (I assume you have a timer that you can set the hot water and heating to come on and off?)

If you dont want to drain the system down, you can get a pipe freezer to freeze the pipe that does not have a stop c*ck on, and then cut the pipe and fit one - however, if the system is old, and has not had new chemicals added, then it is a good idea to drain it all down, rinse it out, refill and then add new inhibitor (after you have checked it doesnt leak!)

Toby...

[Richard]

As long as I am in the house, I won't want the cylinder connected.

I'm actually wanting the space where the cylinder is for a storage space.

So, I want to remove it.

I wonder what it would cost for a plumber to disconnect the actuator assembly board from the system and conncet thge bypass valve. Should not take more than about an hour I think.

[Richard]

Here's the thing in pictures:

presume it's no big deal removing that actuator assembly and the cylinder.

[David Hansen]

On Thu, 06 May 2010 12:51:42 +0100 someone who may be Richard wrote this:-

Presumably you are then going to heat domestic hot water in some other way?

You say later that you want to gain the space. Have you considered a rapid recovery cylinder, which is much smaller than the standard one you will have? One example is .

[<me9]

I've got a 45L version of that. I can get a bathfull out of it (by ensuring the boiler is firing before I start slowly running a bath) but everyone else in the household struggles. I'm thinking of upsizing, but it has got everyone showering instead of bathing, so saves on the gas.

[David Hansen]

On Thu, 06 May 2010 19:29:36 +0100 someone who may be wrote this:-

Their brochure says that size is intended for a one bedroom property with a shower, but they may not have said that when you got yours...

[Richard]

Thanks, that's interesting.

I have 3 options:

1 Remove cylinder & the actuator assembly board.

2 Remove cylinder only and put in smaller cylinder. (Put shelves above cylinder).

3 Remove cylinder only, and keep actuator assembly board in place.

I'd really like to do 1 above, but 2 and 3 might be acceptable.

I'm looking at the electrics at the moment. Look out for some post on this. :c)