Kwikfit have abandoned the air gun approach & now use a torque wrench, and least they had last time I went in. Lots of complaints about over doing the torque had prompted the change apparently.
Slacken the nuts and drive the car a short distance. If it doesn't come free immediately try some sharp braking. Use a *thin* smear of copper grease over the mating parts of the wheel when replacing.
In message , Alan writes
I didn't notice any problems with my Suzuki
certainly better than the effects of a blowout at err ... 70 mph
I'm talking more for a bike, where loss of one tyre is more significant than with a car
I was suggesting it as a "get you to the tyre fitters" stopgap to the OP
Ask dave ...
>
If the /wheel/ is alloy and the /hub/ is steel, warm the wheel - gently but quickly - 'til it's v. warm - bit hot to the touch, then try impact. Aluminium expands more than steel, so this might loosen the wheel a bit.
the centre of the hub with a blowlamp. Take care
dont knock the car off the axle stands onto your head- i put huge logs under my bus in case it falls on me
[g]
Even Kwikfit do that these days. But did you see them looking up a chart for the correct setting?
The cranial meltdown that occurs when they consult the charts and the vehicle isn't in it can be amusing :-)
I had two fitted* to a car about ten years ago which had 1970's alloys on it - internal corrosion / pitting meant that a tyre just wouldn't seal properly any more. I probably did about 40k of fast-road driving on them after and never had any problems.
cheers
Jules
I had a mid-90s Astra that had that problem, although it was partly the varnish or something on the alloys that was flaking and causing the seal failure. I had the wheels skimmed and made 'as new' for about 35 quid each. Brilliant jobs and I never had any more trouble. Problem was they needed each wheel for about 3 days, so I ended up making several trips...
That's why I believe that the manufacturer states a recommended *maximum* speed limit when this stuff is used. Also, some years ago there was a tyre that was sold with this stuff already fitted inside it which allowed the tyre to run for up to 50 miles in a 'flat' condition - in effect, this 'goo' sealed the hole, and the heat buit up when running, caused a partial inflation of the tyre (I forget the name of the system now, but it died-a-death because of the expense of it)
I believe in practice, that will not happen if you comply with the products instructions for use.
No, what's the point of doing that if you have a legal spare tyre - and can remove the wheel with the flat tyre from the axle. This stuff is meant for emergency usage only.
Depends whether the car is fitted with radial (commom) or crossply (uncommon now) tyres - besides, it used to be a common practise to fit an inner tube into a radial tyre if the sidewall was punctured.
Cash
I watched them in my local one while waiting for a puncture to be repaired. Same torque wrench used on three cars without being re-set. Of course they *could* all have had the same setting.
"Steven Campbell" gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying:
It's simply some electrolytic corrosion between the aluminium alloy and steel. A smear of copaslip round the hub will sort it for next time.
And for the removal - yep, loosen the nuts slightly, and drive a short distance.
Or their lawyers have looked at the liabilty issues of not tightening the nuts to the correct torque, above or below...
I'm sure I said that I had used it in my motorbike tyre, but not certain as I can't access my post anymore.
Dave
Bloody Kwikfit - they wouldn't adjust the tracking on my car, as it wasn't in their book. I told them I could give them the figures and would even sign a piece of paper to say that they'd done it to my figures, but they refused. In the end I got somewhere else to do it - I'd only gone to KF as they were local and I didn't want to drive too far as the car wasn't registered or tested (it was legal to drive to take it for work to be done, as the work related to the SVA that was due, but I wanted to avoid any hassles if I met any Plod that didn't know the rules!) Since then I've made up my own simple tracking device and can do it myself.
SteveW
I'd not use them for that anyway. Not after fitting a new steering rack myself where it has a centre finder - a indent in the centre of the rack you screw a bolt into to give the absolute centre. Then fitted the wheel so it was 'straight' and took it to Kwikfit to have the tracking done. After they'd done it the straight ahead position was miles out. As far as they were concerned the tracking was correct. Might well have been - but the geometry must have been out on lock. Eventually found a place who did four wheel alignment and they got it spot on. They did refund what I'd paid, though.
Narrow escape for you then. Never, ever, ever, get the tracking adjusted at Kwik Fit. You stand a chance of getting a dork like Toomy doing it.
Find a decent independent in your area. If you know anyone who does track days, take their advice.
Thanks everyone for the hints and tips. I slackened the wheel nuts off and drove round my housing estate for a few minutes, hitting every pot hole on the way but still the wheel refused to budge. In the end I squirted some super glue into the hole and loads on top of it. Left it to cure for a couple of hours and then blew the tyre back up. Left it over night and no air escaped at all. So managed to drive the 10 miles or so to the nearest tyre place this morning, again with no air escaping.
Job done. Great stuff that super glue ;o)
Steven.
So how they *they* get the wheel off?
Haven't a clue. By the time I'd went in to the office and told them what price of tyre etc, my car had been moved and the offending wheel removed. I'd guess it was a great big hammer although I never heard them hammering!!
Steven.
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