Hi all,
In the high winds we had recently, a wooden post in the middle of a fence I have got snapped off at ground level. Not a clean break, either. Post doesn't appear to be rotten so it must have been a hell of a gust, but we do get 'em round here, I'm afraid. This was a 4"x4" post and the fence is about 5' high. There's not enough above ground to get a grip on, unfortunately. Is there an easier alternative to digging the remaining bit out? cheers, cd.
In message , Cursitor Doom writes
I'd be inclined to try drilling/hacking out the centre of the stump so that you can wallop the tapered spike of a Metpost (or similar) in. You might need make life easier by shortening the spike (typically 22" long) a little. If necessary, secure it with resin.
In article , Cursitor Doom writes
Try a long coach screw down from the top to fix some kind of metal bracket to the top and use a scaff pole to get leverage to lift it out. The new fence post and a jack may work as well.
Generally if its been concreted in, the rot will be there, just in the hole in the concrete, and tends to percolate up and when it reaches ground level that is when it is broken. No drainage in a concrete hole so it rots surprisingly fast. Brian
In message , fred writes
Alternatively, clear enough space round the broken off stump to loop a rope with a *strangle* knot such that it tightens as you lift the lever.
Unlikely to work if the post is concreted in place.
If you can drill a hole in the centre of the stump, a wrecking bar or long cold chisel should do the rest.
If there is enough above ground for you to drill a hole about 1" diameter, use a pry bar with a pointed end and some bricks as a fulcrum. That's worked for me in the past.
Failing that, use a repair spur
Thanks for the tips, guys, some food for thought here.
I slept on the problem and had a brainwave myself. I've got some of that
98% pure sulphuric acid they use for unblocking toilets. I could pour that into the middle of the stump bit by bit until the resulting sludge can easily be scooped out without damaging the surrounding soil or concrete base (if such exists; I haven't investigated). How about that idea? Genius or what?
Well if you have someone nearby with a tractor that has a hydraulic three-point hitch you can use my method. Hang a bit of chain on the three-point hitch, wrap it round the end of the post and get the tractor to do the hard work.
If there's not enough post for the chain to grip then I screw a couple of 300mm coach screws into the 'stump' and pull on them. I've removed quite big (and quite rotten) posts this way.
In article , Cursitor Doom writes
In the absence of a very wide smiley, I'd suggest that it was the stupidest f'ckn idea I'd heard of in a very long time.
No offence . . . .
What usually works for me on agricultural fence posts hammered a foot or more into subsoil (if the post is not too rotten) is to hammer the heavy metal bar I usually use to make the original hole for the post into the side of the stump at an angle and as low down as I can conveniently make it and then lean on the bar trying to avoid breaking up what is left of the post. If the post was in really tight some side ways hammer to loosen the stump in its socket first helps. I try to avoid concreting in even gate posts these days as that makes subsequent removal much much harder.
Well feel free not to give a reason for your objection. I'm a f'ckn mindreader, after all. No offence......
Trouble with dynamite is I'd have to dig out a recess under the stump for it to work, anyway, so no effort saved. Aside from that, although the neighbours have largely got used to the frequent fires and explosions by now, that solution might be pushing my luck a bit too far.
+1
I really did think you were joking.
Negs:
Contaminating the workpiece with a highly corrosive substance without a guarantee of success.
Likelihood of conc acid remaining in pockets even if flushed out with water resulting in danger when subsequently trying to remove the post by mechanical means.
Resorting to mechanical force methods then risks splashing/spray of conc acid.
Conflict of then needing to carry out work mechanical work whist wearing hand and eye protection and the risk of damage to acid proof gloves leading to serious burns.
That's just from a few mins thought, prob not an exhaustive list.
In summary I'd say, not a good idea.
What.
As far as I am aware wood does not dissolve in acid. Certainly not over night.
Also, (remembering a bit of chemistry) concentrated acid becomes very un- concentrated as soon as it starts to react with anything. It also requires something to help it work - generally some water. Concentrated acid by itself is not that reactive. Unblocking toilets almost certainly relies on the water which is already in the toilet to dilute the acid and enable the reaction - you add strong acid to a toilet full of water and get a weak acid which is highly reactive. Playing with highly concentrated acid is not recommended for amateurs, either.
If you are looking for a "quick" (i.e looks at first thought like magic but actually turns out to take weeks to have any effect) you could always drill some holes down the centre, fill them with diesel then try and burn the stump out. Alternatively, see if you can hire a hungry beaver.
Alternatively, just dig down one side. It doesn't take long and I've taken out many wooden posts sunk into concrete this way.
Cheers
Dave R
I had to replace 4 posts in the garden a couple of weeks ago. I dug down one side of the concrete until I had enough space to run a tow rope round them, then dragged them out of the ground with the Disco.
Not a serious suggestion but I was impressed/concerned by the effect of oxidizing agents used for glass fibre work. Seriously charred wood from minor spillages.
Better to leave the concrete where it is surely?
Really? Why? How do I get the new post in through where the old post is? The old posts break off at ground level, leaving ~ 2ft of old post through the concrete and into the ground.
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