Removing a partition wall

[W Luke]

Hi.

First off, I embarassingly admit I'm a 22-year-old novice at DIY. I do the odd electrical jobs and painting, but avoid anything too complicated without strict and compulsory supervision! I have a mate who insists on watching and laughing, but not helping - which has thus brought me here...

We converted our garage into 2 small rooms; a bedroom and an office seperated by a thin partition wall, 2-inch thick. We want rid of it to convert 2 rooms into one.

I'm not sure how to go about it: how should I dismantle it? I know it sounds stupid but I just don't know where to start. The obvious problems I forsee are the marks on the ceiling and ajoining walls made at the join of the partition. Any advice, albeit basic and obvious, greatly recieved.

Regards

Will

[T i m]

That's how we learn though eh (sorta) ;-)

K ..

I assume it's plasterboard over wooden studding? If so you might make a hole in the middle of one of the unsupported panels of wall (assuming there are no wires / pipes etc) and work your way out to the edges. Then you can either unscrew the wood or more lilely it will be nailed so you will have to try to saw 'gaps' in the uprights to make a starting place.

If you lever something (crowbar) place a shim of wood under the heel of the crowbar to minimise damage to the remaining surfaces.

There *will* be holes / marks afterwards so you will need to weigh up the time taken trying to be delicate versus the time taken to make good any damage?

All the best ..

T i m

[GreaseApe]

Removing it by whatever means (sledge hammer, axe, explosive...) is likely to cause damage of some sort that you will have to make good. You might get away with some minor filling and painting - or just painting, or a bit of plastering and painting. Main thing is that you have no electrics or any other services in the partition wall. If you have things could be a little different.

I assume it's studding with plasterboard on it. Rip off the plaster board and then saw the exposed studding before removing to minimise damage.

Grease

[Michael Mcneil]

Since you built the two rooms, you must know what is holding it together. And you fitted the ceilings afterwards?

You will have to stop the ceilings falling if they are resting on the partition. Only you know what they are resting on there. What are they fixed to the roof with by the way?

It won't cost an arm and a leg to re-do the ceiling and -if you can't patch it or don't want to live with the step if there is one -and don't wish to turn it into a feature, then a new ceiling may be the best option.

Assuming the partition is 2 x 2 timber and covered with plasterboard and you have propped the ceilings or are sure they are safe or are going to get rid:

Cover or clear the area first.

Put a saw through the wall.

Cut it into manageable sections.

Go slowly with plenty of tea breaks if you are not too confident.

Safety equiptment aught to be worn. (Personally I think that safety equiptment is over rated. Except for good hard boots, that is.)

[Rick Dipper]

Personally the right saftey equipment is essential. Saftey glasses top my list, (not goggles which are to uncomfortable). Uncomfortable saftey equipment however sensible, remains in my tool shed.

Rick

[W Luke]

I should know, yeah, but it was a very big job (complete ground-floor renovation: the garage was a minor part) and we had builders do it.

Good question - no idea. I'll have to look into that.

Great - thanks for all the ideas and advice, it's given me a much clearer idea of what needs to be done. The support of the ceiling is top priority - or rather, finding out what's holding it up!

Thanks too to everyone else's responses: in the word's of an Austrian, I'll be back

Cheers then

Will

[N. Thornton]

If the wall is 2" thinck its unlikely to be PB on wood. PB on a metal frame is more probable. Same principle applies though.

Regards, NT

[Terry]

One other word/s of advice.

1) Don't worry if you run into something unexpected; you probably will. It's normal; not any indication that you don't know what you are doing. I almost always do! It's sometimes amusing, if you take it the right way! Or a reflection on who did the work in the first place! Just think about a problem and work around it in a sensible and if necessary ingenious manner. 2) Have a go.You will always learn something and that will give confidence for next job. For example I'm 70+ and I've no experience, ever, working with metal wall studding, not wood. But I'd tackle it and learn something as I did so. Also will give you a chance to identify and gradually acquire various tools that you can use for years and years. Even fairly cheap ones used on an occasional basis for do it yourself jobs will give reasonably good service. Whereas a professional/contractor using tools every day and probably dragging them from job site to job site may have to buy more rugged or expensive. Good luck with your renovations.

[W Luke]

confidence

working with

reasonably

I appreciate your wise comments Terry. I tend to give most DIY things a go, but thought I'd seek semi-pro advice before trying this one. I really need to clear the clutter out first, as I'm dying to get a saw through that wall...

Will