Sounds good. I'm not much with a router (only used to set U-shaped metal straps into floorboards someone cut between joists) but I can get better.
Probably I'll need to combine several methods.
Sounds good. I'm not much with a router (only used to set U-shaped metal straps into floorboards someone cut between joists) but I can get better.
Probably I'll need to combine several methods.
Yes, I've been reluctant to begin until I've asked here and mulled over the various options.
I was tending towards that way of thinking.
Unless . . . this is any good?
Probably, I've got a cheapy one I got from Homebase some years ago, seems plenty fast enough to me.
It will take of a couple of mm in one pass quite happily.
On my one, the blades are double sides. Whip them out, turn them round, and you have a new edge. :)
And I agree with Chris - a couple of mm in a single pass. So, this would be a quick job, then tidy up the ends, where the planer won't reach.
That sounds pretty unsafe. If I were doing this I'd try to be standing on something stable that's high enough that (assuming I wasn't banging my head on the ceiling) I could use the tool at chest or waist height, in front of me rather than above me. If you have to use a power tool above you, wear a hard hat. Think about a mask etc if the dust etc coming off might blind you.
Yes, if you're buying a tool specially for the job, this would be a good bet. I did a similar thing with an edge trimmer (a small belt driven router) but only because I had one lying around. The advantage was it got very close to the edges and was lightweight compared to a proper router
That sounds reassuring. Pretty soon I'll need to get started and see what works with what I have in the way of tools.
I suppose that you really do do need to do this? I know that the gap is
60 cm plus a smidgen, but quite a lot of appliances that are nominally 60 cm are actually something like 59 cm. It is just that you were worried about getting appliances through the gap? Have you tried them?
The specs for the appliance I want to get through the doorway say it is
600mm wide, but actually it is 595 plus some small protruding bits, which make it truly 600.The doorway gap is over 6 inches from front to back, so any slight misalignment would mean the thing was wedged. (I'd be dreaming if I thought anything was still square after 100 years).
My little-used router seems to be doing a good though slow job of enlarging the opening, and I can't believe that removing 10mm from the
2-1/2" x 6-1/4" upright is going to dangerously weaken it.By removing 10mm either side, the clearance will still be only about one inch, so careful alignment will still be necessary.
What do you find is a good substance to slide appliances on? I've used cardboard and hardboard, but there must be something with a lower coefficient of friction.
Using a 3 inch small circular saw with depth adjustment, Lidl type this is no problem.
In message , Windmill writes
Sack barrow!
I have also used a carpet off cut.
It would only get properly wedged when you give it a good shove. :)
Hardboard shiny side down is cheap and cheerful. You only need a couple of offcuts under the feet. What are you sliding it on?
You can get appliance roller skates
Polythene is pretty good, especially if you can get two layers - they slide on each other better than on other things.
But it needs to be thick heavy stuff on a hard surface so the appliance doesn't cut through.
Andy
Fein Multimaster, or equivalent.
/ Fein Multimaster, or equivalent/q
Hehe Which blade you got?
Jim K
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.