With a tiny kitchen I want to install 500mm depth worktops and floor units to match, but the only off-the-shelf option seems to be tall wall units - t hese are only 300mm deep though. Thinking of cutting down standard units to about 100mm shallower - anyone have experience of this? Went to Howdens to day but theirs are assembled and joints glued so likely to be too difficult without destroying them. Think Wickes not glued - of flatpack?
I have cut down kitchen units - and it can be a right pain.
The front of the unit isn't an issue. But towards the back you typically have slots for the back to slide into. Drawer runners and drawers which might no longer fit. The screws to hold the unit together are likely to be in the back 100mm - even if there are some forward of that, it won't be enough. The holes for shelf supports will be in the wrong place.
I was so very much happier at my attempts at making cupboards using "spare" parts from B&Q. What were supposed to be parts of other kitchen units - decent quality laminated board with nice smoothly curved edges. Sold off relatively cheaply - though not sure if they still do that? I used good quality hardware (e.g. Blum hinges), which make the whole cabinets work nicely. But a surprising amount of work.
Didn't know this company existed, let alone anything about them, but suggest you keep looking
The Magnet units I installed a few years ago were not far off that. Once you start reducing the depth you do have problems with hobs and sinks.
How many units are you looking for? I'd agree with other poster who says cutting down is possible but not as easy as you might think.
I have a non-standard (width) sink unit in my kitchen and I made the carcase from 18 mm ply, cut with a sawboard, and joined with biscuits. Once you have these tools (plus two clamps, a workmate and an adjustable prop to support large bits when sawing) it is surprisingly quick and easy to make an accurate and strong "box". I'd mount it on the standard adjustable plastic feet used on most modern kitchen units. Biggest effort might be painting it. Buy doors separately, and get good quality hinges.
When I was on a tight budget in my first house and needed some narrow base units I fabricated them from standard melamine coated chipboard and
2x1 battens, but they were not very satisfactory.
Two-ring 'domino' hobs are widely available and can be mounted sideways.
Very small sinks and hobs (and combinations) are available from caravan suppliers.
Owain
The flat-pack carcasses that we bought from B&Q some years ago have the backs about 100mm in (presumably for pipes and such to run behind). It would be easy to cut along or just in front of the slot, making them shallower and simply glue and pin backs on. It's worth a good look at the various carcasses available these days, I'm sure some will be adaptable.
Just measured my B&Q cabinets (about 9 year old, maybe they've changed) you'd be hard pushed to carve much more than 80mm off the back without having to completely re-jig the slot/rebate for the back.
That was my experience. I *thought* the rebate was about 75mm in but that is purely from memory.
You can also get four ring hobs (at least induction hobs) which have the rings stretched out - like this one:
You don't absolutely need a back.
You don't at all. The pipes are aready hidden by the doors & the contents.
NT
True.
I've always been a little bit sceptical about backs concealing pipework. How do you clean behind them or get access in the event of a leak?
Owain
In the case of bathroom units, this is what I did in a previous house.
It was one of those flatpack units with cam locks in the back panel and pins protruding from the sides. I reversed the panel (laminated both sides) and cut slots instead of holes from the edge. I could then remove it from the front.
They do provide rigidity.
Clean behind them?? Just leave the spiders to it and forget about it.
There's a few 4" holes drilled in the backs of mine to get at water and gas valves, these are covered by flaps of matching back panel on insulating tape hinges.
I find screwing the units to the wall is sufficient for rigidity.
Obviously backs look nicer, but if you are cutting down the units anyway, space inside the cupboards is limited, and it may be better to put up with some visible piping and wiring. That's a matter of personal preference, of course.
Yes + yes. I don't like wasting space for nothing of any value to me.
NT
Just as long as you don't mind things at the back of the cupboard snagging on pipes and wires. Assuming of course you do actually intend to make full use of the back of the cupbpoard right up to the wall
Unless of course you've got the time and the inclination to spend time faffing about, possibly down on your hands and knees making sure that everything is stowed and removed with the neceesary degree of care.
michael adams
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why would anything snag on neatly clipped wires and pipes?
Owain
Because they're there ?
To be quite honest with you, anyone aspiring to DIY, who hasn't yet worked out quite how easy it is to attache a piece of white faced hardboard to the back of a cupboard made of say 15 or 18 mm chip or MDF using nothing more complicated than 20 odd 1 inch wire nails, a bradawl and a small hammer should maybe give some serious consideration to what they're doing with their lives. Oh sorry I forgot to add the pencil and the ruler needed to draw the line 7.5/9 mm from the edge around the sides of the hairy face, Using a bradawl also offers the opportunity to practice the use of angled or dovetail nailing without bending too many nails.
michael adams
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