Recommendations for a base for a shed to encourage a long life (of the shed!)

Having spent all last weekend tearing down and cutting up an old shed, I now want to replace it with a shiny new model.

The "base" that the existing shed was on was merely leveled ground with apparently rolls of shed roofing felt laid over it to create a barrier. Bear in mind we estimate that the shed was at least 40 years old.

The shed manufacturers have been fairly non-committal about what they want as a base (essentially anything solid-ish and level will do them), so curious if there are any particular recommendations or pitfalls to avoid.

I've got quite a few spare paving flags lying around, so very tempted to use those for substantial parts of the job. Do you need to consider water penetrating if sitting on a solid surface such as this?

Any help gratefully received!

Matt

Reply to
larkim
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Square paving slabs as load spreaders, short brick piers, thick polythene (DPC) or proper A1 roofing felt on top as DPC.

Airflow under a shed prevents rot, moves the shed timbers out of the ground "rot zone", and provides protection from splashback (rain hitting ground splashes back up causing damp).

If you plan on using the shed as a work room in winter, insulate the floor re cold feet (polystyrene jablite with whatever flooring on top), and insulate the ceiling re sun bake & winter heat loss. A dehumidifier will keep things dry, but are expensive to run if any air changes per hour so vapour barrier everything.

Reply to
js.b1

The last shed we put up at school was on level ground and we used 4x4 post timbers as a sub-base on which to lay the shed floor proper. This lifts it up enough to allow air-flow, keep the floor out of any standing water, and they look part of the shed.

Works well .. ;)

Reply to
Paul - xxx

now want to replace it with a shiny new model.

pparently rolls of shed roofing felt laid over it to create a barrier. =A0B= ear in mind we estimate that the shed was at least 40 years old.

t as a base (essentially anything solid-ish and level will do them), so cur= ious if there are any particular recommendations or pitfalls to avoid.

use those for substantial parts of the job. =A0Do you need to consider wate= r penetrating if sitting on a solid surface such as this?

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Reply to
NT

A regularly discussed topic here

100mm concrete base (DPC under concrete to stop water draining down whilst setting) is the easiest and most durable

When set just drop the shed floor on to it

Concrete blocks with wooden bearers at 500mm centres at right angles to the shed floor 'joists' cheaper but more trouble to get level all over

Pallets laid on bits of slab would also work

Reply to
TMC

I've used old wooden railway sleepers in the past with 1 1/2 inch plywood sheets screwed to them. Worked a treat!

Reply to
Wesley

want to replace it with a shiny new model.

apparently rolls of shed roofing felt laid over it to create a barrier. Bear in mind we estimate that the shed was at least 40 years old.

a base (essentially anything solid-ish and level will do them), so curious if there are any particular recommendations or pitfalls to avoid.

those for substantial parts of the job. Do you need to consider water penetrating if sitting on a solid surface such as this?

whats going/gone on my shed is not te base and neither is it the floor except where a roof leak allowed water to pool inside.

Its the roof.

Anything that reliably keeps the shed timbers clear of the ground is OK.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Many thanks one and all.

Matt

Reply to
larkim

want to replace it with a shiny new model.

apparently rolls of shed roofing felt laid over it to create a barrier. Bear in mind we estimate that the shed was at least 40 years old.

a base (essentially anything solid-ish and level will do them), so curious if there are any particular recommendations or pitfalls to avoid.

those for substantial parts of the job. Do you need to consider water penetrating if sitting on a solid surface such as this?

Concrete fence posts laid on the ground. Good ventilation, they can't rot. You can often find damaged ones cheap.

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

In message , TMC writes

I've never liked the shed base just being laid onto a concrete/slab base

- seems to be asking for the cross members to rot. I like better ventilation.

That's basically what I did in the old house. Can't say I thought it was hard to get it level. Less work I'd say than laying slabs or a concrete base.

Reply to
chris French

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