I'd like to buy a recirculating cooker hood that can just go under a line of wall cupboards - so heopfullt something a few cms thick. Are these available? The kitchen fitter said that they all intrude into the cupboard above, but I was fairly sure that's wrong. Can I just check with the gurus here, pls?
a bit more than the slideout rangehood design - that's only 3.5cm high (visible) which means your cupboard above can be larger, which may mitigate the intrusion into the cupboard space.
I always assumed the recirculating ones were there primarily for decoration rather than function (the big flashy chimney ones typically). If you want one which doesn't extract steam and fumes, and which you can't really see either, I can't help wondering why you'd bother?
- Free carbon filter for recirculation mode (=A37-9 each)
An improvement on the old ugly designs & filter holes.
Built-in cooker hood...
- Go to
formatting link
- Search for Built-In cooker hood (Baumatic)
- They do a twin for some silly low price
- All the cooker hood except the faceplate is inset
The twin work superbly for high volume extraction in hot summers. The downside is I suspect the mounting hole might encroach on some cabinet fixings (cam & dowel, pegs, whatever). Not a problem for anyone who can create a custom cupboard (or just change the fixings and dowel or biscuit joint elsewhere, plastic repair block if necessary).
Even in recirculate mode the air must go somewhere, which will be a
100-125-150mm hole at the top into the cupboard with ducting to an exhaust on top of the cupboard. If you can duct through a wall (extract) the benefits are obvious.
Recirculate requires filter replacement, filter clean/replacement, heat & steam stays in the kitchen - pointless really. You need a window or wall fan or cooker hood extracting to the outside in a kitchen.
- Free carbon filter for recirculation mode (£7-9 each)
An improvement on the old ugly designs & filter holes.
Built-in cooker hood...
- Go to
formatting link
- Search for Built-In cooker hood (Baumatic)
- They do a twin for some silly low price
- All the cooker hood except the faceplate is inset
The twin work superbly for high volume extraction in hot summers. The downside is I suspect the mounting hole might encroach on some cabinet fixings (cam & dowel, pegs, whatever). Not a problem for anyone who can create a custom cupboard (or just change the fixings and dowel or biscuit joint elsewhere, plastic repair block if necessary).
Even in recirculate mode the air must go somewhere, which will be a
100-125-150mm hole at the top into the cupboard with ducting to an exhaust on top of the cupboard. If you can duct through a wall (extract) the benefits are obvious.
Recirculate requires filter replacement, filter clean/replacement, heat & steam stays in the kitchen - pointless really. You need a window or wall fan or cooker hood extracting to the outside in a kitchen.
They get pretty disgusting inside with grease - even if you hardly fry! I converted mine to extract within months. It is also quieter in Extract mode.
The recirculating ones use a grease filter to remove grease and a charcoal filter to remove odours and you replace them every so often (so just like a deep fat fryer really) - they're not very good, but they're better than nothing I suppose. We've just redecorated the kitchen and I've taken the opportunity to put a vent through the wall, remove the charcoal filter and switch the hood to extraction mode.
Not always that easy though. Until recently our cooker was on the wrong side of the kitchen, so the hood had no access to an outside wall, the only way to may it extract would have been to run the flat rectangular ducting across the ceiling (white ducting against a wooden ceiling, no thanks!) or take it through the ceiling, but access via the floor above was nigh on impossible. Now the kitchen has been rearranged and the cooker is against the external wall, it's all been easy.
I don't know what access you might have, but when installing a vent in our toilet, I bought a vent kit (from B&Q) where the the liner tube has mouldings along it's length to hold screws. I core drilled from the inside, dropped a rope down to the ground and tied on the tube, complete with exterior cover attached, pulled it up into place, squirted some low expansion foam around to secure it and then screwed the fan to the other end the next day. No need for access to the exterior at all.
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