Re-wiring kitchen - some advice, please

[Chris Kaley]

Just about to re-wire my kitchen - I last did this in 1984, and could do with a couple of pointers.

1). Regulations are bound to have changed since then - anyone know off-hand the minimum distance from a power socket to either a sink/drainer or hob? I have a feeling it's 30cm, but need to confirm this.

2). Also, when I originally built the kitchen, I had a stand-alone electric cooker, for which I fitted an MK combined cooker switch/3 pin socket on it's own 30amp supply, together with a flex outlet for the cooker.

The plan is to replace the cooker with an oven uint, and a separate hob (both electric). I will be replacing the cooker switch with a new one to match the style of the other ring main switch boxes in the kitchen.

The question is, can I still use one switch box, or do I need one each for the hob and oven unit (the hob will be installed in the work surface above the oven). Likewise, do I need 2 x 6mm flex outlets or can I connect the hob to the oven unit? (They are both Neff appliances).

3.) Last (but not least) I fitted a King waste disposal unit to the sink unit all those years ago, activated by a fused spur. Is this still the preferred method of operation now, or is there some other means of activating the device?

4). Oh, one other thing - our washing machine has a built in timer (which is useful, because we are on economy 7 and can run the machine at night more cheaply). The new machine (which doesn't have a timer) will be built into a carcass, and plugged into a socket beneath the work surface, and the only easy access to the power supply will be via a fused spur switch. Does anyone know if it's possible to get a timer unit which can be fitted inside a metal patress box?

Thanks for any ideas

Chris

[Lurch]

On Sun, 9 May 2004 16:53:32 +0100, in uk.d-i-y "Chris Kaley" strung together this:

Correct, although I usually go for 300mm from a draining board and

600mm from a sink where possible.

Depends on the ratings, if they're both under a total of around 30A then yes, one switch into two outlets would be fine. If they're over then it's 2 supplies you'll be wanting. I'd fit the hob supply switch under the worktop in this case, unless you don't mind having another switch above.

That's still an acceptable method.

Try one of these in place of the spur.

[Chris Kaley]

That's all really useful information, and all questions answered!

Thanks, Lurch

--

[Tim Nicholson]

The electricians who tested/certified the wiring in our new kitchen last year reckoned that if you could flick the switch on a socket with one hand whilst your other hand was in the sink, the socket was probably too close!

They did, however, sign off on the sockets I'd installed which were about 20" from the sink. I don't have the regs to hand tho - so can't confirm your 30cm thought...

Tim

[Martin Pentreath]

[Lurch]

On 9 May 2004 15:52:55 -0700, in uk.d-i-y martin [e-mail] (Martin Pentreath) strung together this:

The link I posted was to a switched fused spur with digital timer built in, the one you posted was just a timer with no isolator, fuse or anything. You must try harder next time!

[Lurch]

On Sun, 09 May 2004 23:37:18 +0100, in uk.d-i-y Tim Nicholson strung together this:

The regs, or the NICEIC, can't remember which. I think the regs are a bit vague on this subject but the NICEIC reccomend 300mm. If you can reach a socket with one hand and the sink with your other then that would acount for most sockets in most kitchens. I think you need to find a better electrician with more common sense.

[Andrew Gabriel]

There's no distance specified in the regs, just a requirement that other services such as water be far enough apart not to directly interfere. Use common sense. The distance you might choose in a large kitchen might mean you can't have any socket outlets if applied to a tiny kitchen, so it's not black and white.

[Tim Nicholson]

He had his tongue very firmly planted in his cheek when he said it..... Tim

[Martin Pentreath]

Blush, you're right, maybe I should just go to back to asking the questions instead of trying to answer them ;-)

As I intend to do the same thing as Chris at some point soon, could someone explain why the washing machine needs to be on a fused spur? Wouldn't just having a timer of the cheapo Screwfix variety make the socket into which the WM is plugged the same as any other spur socket, but just controlled by a timer? Is there anything wrong with that?

[Lurch]

On 10 May 2004 10:57:07 -0700, in uk.d-i-y martin [e-mail] (Martin Pentreath) strung together this:

We all have off days!

It doesn't, it's just for convenience.

Not anything wrong particularly, other than a 16A timeswitch protected by a 32A MCB and the timeswitch itself having no isolator, and also not particularly good practice. For convenience the switched spur is to isolate the machine for maintenance, or in case of a tripping RCD caused by the machine. Both of these can be done without having to pull the machine out to get to the plug.

[Chris Kaley]

Well, I'm impressed at the amount of interest shown in this.

Lurch, I ordered two of the timers you recommended (24 hour version) - they look just the ticket (thought I'd do the dishwasher as well, whilst I'm at it).

[Lurch]

On Mon, 10 May 2004 20:13:07 +0100, in uk.d-i-y "Chris Kaley" strung together this:

I'm sometimes surprised at the length of some threads for basic type questions!

Good idea.

Just for future reference, could you please not top post. Thankyou.

[Phil Nettleton]

you may also find that the new cable colours are now in effect (april 2004) these being brown and blue and green /yellow for fixed wiring and a label should be placed by the consumer unit advising that both colours are installed in the system also 3 core and earth are now coloured brown /black /gray the outer sheath is gray in colour indicating pvc insulation and white sheath indicating LSF insulation the old colours may still be installed until april 2005

a word of warning about 3 phase black is now a live conductor and blue is now neutral

phil nettleton

[Lurch]

On Fri, 14 May 2004 01:12:04 +0100, in uk.d-i-y "Phil Nettleton" strung together this:

Not confusing at all, considering the stupidity of quite a few sparkys I've worked with in the past!

[Andy Wade]

Not necessarily - in fact I've not come across that notion at all, and you can certainly buy ordinary BS 6004 PVC twin & earth in both grey and white sheath versions (e.g. see RS catalogue).

^^^^ No, 2006 - it's a two-year change over. Work starting on site on or after

01/04/2006 must use the new colours.