Re: Victorian ceiling renovation.

I've tried to use Sealants from hardware stores, but they take an

>infinite amount of time to dry - infact they never dry and eventually >wash-away or dry 6-months later and then crack. > >My shower has been leaking slightly for a long time. There is a small >gap around the shower basin and the tiles that neads to be sealed with >something. > >There must be some quick-setting sealant that is 100% water-proof and >can dry in damp conditions? I was thinking of filling it with >epoxy-resin or something. > >Is it too much to ask for a sealant that can seal in non-ideal >conditions?

I used Unibond bathroom and shower sealant from the local shed. Expensive at 8 quid a go but it's so bloody waterproof it's v.difficult to smooth it after application 'cos it sticks to

*everything*. Flexible too, the only thing that broke it in our case was for some reason the shower tray managed to drop a few mm (don't ask why, I dunno yet!) and the stuff stretched and broke the grout on the surrounding tiles resulting in much leakage.....

The moral to this tale is if yer tray doesn't drop this stuff is good! IMO obviously.

cheers

witchy/binarydinosaurs

Reply to
Mike
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Let's hope it's only lath and plaster...

Reply to
Ian White

The cornices are usually nailed to the joists, and made of much sterner stuff than the ceilings, so it's possible - though messy - to remove the old plaster leaving them intact. And depending on the thickness of the old plaster simply nail plasterboard over the laths and skim - or cut and remove the laths if you need to.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Cornice renovation requires patience to get loads of paint off, but not lots of skill. On old houses an immaculate ceiling is not necessary - its called the character of age so you may get away with polyfilla in the cracks. If the ceiling is not repairable then the plaster can generally be taken off and the ceiling replastered, leaving the cornice in situ

Anna

~~ Anna Kettle, Suffolk, England |""""| ~ Lime plaster repairs / ^^ \ // Freehand modelling in lime: overmantels, pargeting etc |____|

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Reply to
Anna Kettle

Agreed, we did this in our last house. Cut round the edge of the ceiling just next to the cornice to make sure the ceiling comes away without disturbing the cornice. You might need to counterbatten or use double sheets of plasterboard to get new ceiling to correct level with respect to cornice. Toby

Reply to
Toby Sleigh

If you do that hack out a bit of plaster either side of the crack before filling so the filler adheres to the lath and the full thickness of plaster. Also be sure to use a stain block before painting - I didn't and the filler shows up as bright white against the slightly off-white original plaster, despite the fact that I'd stripped most of the original paint and applied several coats of new emulsion.

Reply to
Rob Morley

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