Re-tiling kitchen - plastering question

[David Hearn]

I've just stripped off the hideous tiles from our kitchen today. Total time taken from start to finish = 5 hours (which probably includes 2.5 hours of breaks + lots of striding around looking at what I'd done!). I bought a reduced price previous catalogue B&Q SDS drill from Argos for £46 using £30 of vouchers from the refund of the 'recalled' Challenge SDS. This one is listed as 3.5kg and although still heavy, was usable for this duration and made the job quite easy. It took me about 5 minutes to get a single tile off using a bolster and lump hammer - whereas I could get one off in a few seconds, maybe up to a minute for a difficult one which kept breaking off the edges rather than coming straight off (this was using a 2cm chisel bit included, not a proper tile remover chisel).

And before anyone suggests - we couldn't just tile over the old ones as we weren't going to cover all the tiles with new ones - only those behind the worktops, and then only 2/3 up to the wall unit height. There was a good wall (up to eye level) or so of tiles which we're not replacing.

Anyway - onto the reason for this post.

I now need to replaster. I've done this before using pre-mixed tubs from B&Q (never again, I've since realised just how much is needed, how pants the pre-mixed stuff is, and how much easier it is to use a sloppy mix from a bag).

Behind the worktops we want to tile up to 40cm, leaving 20cm under the wall units as painted. On walls with worktop but no wall units, we'll be doing the same, just painting all of the wall above the tiles. For wall which don't have any tiles, we'll be painting.

Now - what sort of plaster should I use for the bit under the tiles? In some places I'm back to bare brick where the plaster had blown and sometimes right next to it I've got good plaster where the previous occupants had blocked up a door etc. I've heard of bonding plaster - which seems to have chips of something in it? Is this suitable? However we also want to be able to paint the rest. I've never skimmed before, but done a (reasonable for me, but poor for a pro) job at patching before (now hidden by a wardrobe as it was obvious it was a patch!). How easy is it to blend two bits of plaster together? On the walls we're not tiling at chest level and above is blown vinyl (which we're stripping) - but I need to be able to blend the bit which used to be tiled with the bit above - I really don't want to reskim the whole kitchen. We'll probably try lining the walls where we paint actually. It's worked well in all the other rooms, and may help cover some blemishes.

I'm not expecting a pro finish - and I only have 4 days remaining to get as much as I can done (I'm expecting now to only get the plastering and worktops replaced in that time). Also, I realised I need to leave the plaster to dry first - so we'll leave the tiling/painting for a while first.

One final question (honest) - as a last resort - what sort of price would you expect for a plasterer to re-plaster a kitchen with units etc still in place, blending in against good plaster (ie. all above chest height)? The kitchen is a galley style, open each end, wall units on one side, none on the other (though windows + boiler). Kitchen is about

4m long and shouldn't need any plastering above about 1.2m, and in some places down to the floor. I'm in Surrey.

So - any suggestions?

Thanks (off to bag up the piles of tiles laying all over the kitchen now)

David

[Dean Heighington]

Here's my advice...

First, ask yourself what you're expecting. How fussy are you? Will you be living in the house and will your eye always be drawn to the badly done bits (as is mine, to my poorer efforts around the house). What style is the kitchen, modern or rustic? Imperfect plastering won't jarr so much in a country pine kitchen but will against brushed steel! Is the finished paint job a light or dark colour? Matt or silk? These are all worth considering. You mention a deadline... is this a business for you or is it just that you have some time off work?

I used to want to learn the art, but have now resigned myself to leaving it to the professionals... its finished decor and will always be on show! Skilled spreads learn their trade by constant tuition and repetition... they have to learn the knack and taking breaks is not an option if a perfect finish is to be achieved. My brother-in-law is a spread and I don't know how he does it... its knackering, especially when its hot and the 'gear' goes off quicker.

If you can get a good one (go for the older guy with a huge right arm) I would get a spread in to do it. Save yourself some money by avoiding small areas that need 'blending in'. Its best to remove old, blown plaster back to the brickwork. Do this where necessary and get the walls back by at least a 'grade' all over... a plasterer works best and fastest when he can 'hit' the whole wall, not just patches and will fix beads where necessary... do the lot! Don't patch. Brickwork needs sand and cement and bonding will be required on dodgy surfaces. Get a spread in and ask him what needs rendering (sand & cement) and what needs bonding... then maybe you can do this yourself before he comes.

The average price amongst the trade is £6 per square metre, but door/window reveals and plinths will bump the price up. Basically, the more edges, the more it'll cost.

I had my garden studio plastered from tacked plaster board to finish coat. It took 4 spreads from 8.00am to 4.00pm the same day. There were three rooms with one having a vaulted ceiling (right up to the roof apex), 3 six foot windows, 3 doorways plus french doors to the rear. The total area was about 160sq/m (including ceiling) and I paid £500 plus a £30 tip... you won't get that though, I benefited from my builder mate who puts a lot of work with the spreads called a favour on my behalf... sorry to make you envious, but the finish was superb... I was afraid to paint it :)

HTH

deano.

[VisionSet]

Didn't read all your post so hope this isn't too wide of the mark. For under tiles just use one coat plaster about £5 per dry 25kg. Batten the wall conscientiously making them all as level as possible, finish is not important but a true flat surface is essential. PVA wall with 2 coats of 5:1 water:pva unless you know it is v. low porosity ie it don't suck! slap it beween the battons and level off with a straight edge. When set remove battons and fill them in a similar fashion. Wait till throughly dried out, PVA again, then tile when dry.

That's how I did mine and it is perfect :-)

-- Mike W