Re-Roofing thatch ??

[NoviceButWilling]

Hi!

It's been a while - but we're on to the next project - a Grade 11 listed 17thC thatched cottage.

Unusually enough, its very light and airy, with 7' ceilings - the place needs alot of work doing to it, but with a little experience in these things now, we're confident that this one will be as much of a success as the three before - and now we'll finally be able to keep one!

HOWEVER, this is the first time I've worked with thatch. AND, although the thatch only needs combing and patching, the palins and rafters all need replacing.

Does anyone have any idea how much these things cost? The roof is a 'T' shape, with the stem of the 'T' shorter and not as high (classic rear extension) - the main ridge where the problems are is only 21' long (and semi detached)

All help much appreciated - cheers guys!

[dom]

Palins? Purlins perhaps? I'm assuming the roof is held up by oak trusses supporting the purlins and rafters - is it possible to replace them without stripping off the thatch? Maybe it's easier with thatch, can it can just be jacked up a bit? What's under the thatch/inside the rooms? Lath and plaster? Plaster straight on the thatch? I'd expect the timber to be very cheap (particularly if it's a green timber) - I'd expect the specialist labour to be a different story.

[NoviceButWilling]

Erm, yeah - Purlins.....thank goodness my understanding is better than my spelling! The ceilings in the two bedrooms underneath the main ridge need replacing anyway, since some bright spark thought it would be clever to cover up the disintegrating lathe/plaster ceiling by attaching plaster board to it (needless to say, one morning someone will wake up with the plaster board on their duvet!)

My understanding is that we can jack the thatch up to slot the timbers into place, then have the thatch combed and patched (which it needs anyway) to repair and strains or pulls to the layers that occurred as we lift it.

[The Natural Philosopher]

I got quotes from 17500 to 40k to thatch my house.

the 17500 was picked and a very nice job done.

Same thatchers did a freind of mines place. Again less than half the price..

Now listing is a bitch because they will want you to use 'authentic' materials. I got Turkish reed but local here is Combed Barley Straw or some such bollocks. Similar price only lasts half the time.

I don't see how you can replace rafters with the thatch in place.

Am I missing something?

I'd say 6-8k to redo the sodding lot (with our CHEAP thatcher- laders and naiuls, not a bloody scaffold all around, and an inflated ego: treble it for the brown rice real ale and hiking boots one) with a bit more to get the whole roof sorted. You need to pay attention to any chimneys that poke through - blown pointing can be literally lethal if you get a chimney fire - and IF the listing bastards will let you slapping a fireproof board over the roof timbers and a bit of breathable membrane will stop draughts, lower the fire risk and lower your insurance premium.

Patching work is obviously less. - a good thatcher can do a ridge in a week..but lets face it, he doesn't do it when its raining, snowing, and so on, so his week needs to be a grand and a half week at least.

The key to finding a good thatcher is to ask around - ask anyone who looks like they had a decent job done recently - just knock on the doors!

If you are anyywhere near east suffolk/west cambs or north west essex, the guy who did mine is around that area.

[The Natural Philosopher]

Ah, Now things become clearer..you will also need it rewired - with chicken wire!

My guess is 2-3 weeks. Maybe 2-3 grand. More if scaffolding is required. I knwo some good green oak chippes as well..

[meow2222]

Since its listed you need to start by asking the CO how the problem would best be tackled. If you do the work without getting the CO's say so you'll be committing a criminal offence, and will devalue the property, as liability for rectifying your work according to the CO's wishes would be passed onto the buyer. From your comments I wonder if you've contacted your CO or not.

Really the forum for all this is

also have lists of specialists, which is what you'll be needing.

Is this a fix and sell project?

Finally why dont you tell us more about what the problem with the woodwork is. The majority of socalled problems are just normal on historic properties and dont need anything doing.

Re the ceiling, the PB can hold it all in place while you pour adhesive onto the top side, if you can access it. Once set, remove PB and skim. This is generally a lot less work than a new L&P ceiling, and a lot cleaner to do. Doesnt always apply, but is easier if it does.

NT