Re: hot swapping rads

> I want to move radiators without removing them, and without draining,

> The bracket 'hooks' are usually 6-10mm deep, so you only need to be able > to lift the rad by that much. If the pipes go through the floor, there > is almost always enough play to unhook the rad.

excellant, ty.

Regards, NT

Reply to
N. Thornton
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Be careful if doing any work with them in this state, as the pipes are easily damaged.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Yeras ago I saw an idea that had the radiators held to the brackets by pins going through holes in both rad and bracket,instead of the rads being hooked on .There was also a chain connecting rad and bracket and when you wanted to decorate you loosened the connections ,removed the pins and folded the rad forward and tightened up the connections and did the reverse when finished .. Apparently it never caught on... Stuart

Reply to
Stuart

sounds clever. But... the pipes are cemented in, so no movement at all. I'm beginning to think the only option is to drain down, saw through the pipes, and reconnect with compression fittings afterwards.

Cheers, NT

Reply to
N. Thornton

End feed capillary would look neater.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

"N. Thornton" wrote | sounds clever. But... the pipes are cemented in, so no movement | at all. I'm beginning to think the only option is to drain | down, saw through the pipes, and reconnect with compression | fittings afterwards.

There only needs to be enough give to enable the valve to be separated from the radiator by mm. If they got the radiator in with the pipes cemented, then you should be able to get it out.

Owain

Reply to
Owain

In article , N. Thornton writes

Assuming that the rad valves are compression fittings, can't you undo them after draining and then lift the rad off?, or have I got this ABF?.....

Reply to
tony sayer

"N. Thornton" wrote

Try using 2 thick black bin liners, one inside the other. Don't let them get too heavy to lift, though. I've had success using this method.

Steve S

Reply to
SteveS

It's a good idea to put a couple of blocks of timber on the floor where the rad. will swing down, the same height as the connections, so that the rad. can rest on these and not strain the pipework or fittings.

J.B.

Reply to
Jerry Built

You should be able to bend the pipes out a fraction, but you'll probably have to drain the radiator.

J.B.

Reply to
Jerry Built

loads of good ideas. I guess I just have to drain the system bagful by bagful :(

Regards, NT

Reply to
N. Thornton

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