I have had to remove a radiator and its brackets from a wall that
required re-plastering. I have no idea where the screw holes were for
the brackets. I had left the screws in the wall but the plasterer
I am now faced with the task of putting the brackets back in the right
My idea is to put the brackets on the radiator and hold in place with
tape. Fix some short nuts and bolts in the holes in the brackets and
dab the end of the bolt with paint. Loosley fix the radiator onto the
valves then carefully swing the rad up to the wall so that the painted
bolts leave a mark. Remove the rad from the valves, drill the holes
fix the brackets then hang the rad.
Has anyone tried this or have any better ideas for re hanging a
Lie the rad face down, and hook on its brackets. Measure the screw hole
positions relative to the corners of the rad.
Now support the rad (on books or something) against the wall in the right
position to connect up the pipework, and mark the corner positions on the
Using the first set of measurements, and the marked corner positions, you
can now work out where the screw holes need to be.
When I re-hung an especially large rad recently (a triple hanger job), I
considered measuring the distance between screw holes on the hangers
whilst fitted to the rad, face down and their positions relative to the
valve fitting points and drilling the wall accordingly. However, I always
find that when I do something like this, I end up with a poor fit (God
knows why: I measure *very* carefully). Anyway, not wanting to pepper my
new wall with a multitude of wrongly drilled holes, I made a template of
the rad using a large cardboard box. Obviously, the template doesn't need
to be the full size of the rad, just big enough to cover the hangers and
the valve fitting positions. Once satisfied that the template was
accurate, it was placed over hanger bracket number 1 and shifted around
on the wall until the valve fitting position lined up correctly with the
pipe stub and valve coming out of the floor.
Bracket number 1 was then sellotaped in place and bracket number 2 placed
in position on the template at the opposite end. Alignment with the pipe
stub/valve was repeated at that end also and bracket number 2 sellotaped
in position. Hanger brackets 1 and 2 were then fitted in position and a
piece of string was streched between them to show where to put the middle
bracket. I was pleasantly surprised to find that the rad fitted perfectly
and the valves re-attached with no problems.
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