Re: concrete floor pouring



You might have problems tamping like this because you won't be able to slide the tamping board sideways to pare off the top of the concrete, and where will you stand? I'd put up some shuttering about 18" from each side, concrete inside this, then remove shuttering and fill in the outside later.
Rob Graham
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| If anyone in te Stoke area wants to come and learn, or show me (and help me) | how to lay a conrete slab floor in my front room they are very welcome. | | I have a few questions. I'm ordering a minimix to deliver the concrete which | will be poured (4" thick) onto 2" of polystyrene insulation. | | 1. can I pour the slab (12' x 14') as one slab, rather than dividing it up? | | 2. how do I level it/tamp it - I was thinking of nailing/screwing boards | where the skirting used to be and using these to get the level correct, | and using these to rest a board on (with cut-outs on each end) for tamping | down. Any other suggestions? | | Thank you, | | Neil
whilst you in there why not fit under floor heating pipes? last chance you will get to do it!
rpm
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| >| If anyone in te Stoke area wants to come and learn, or show me (and help | >me) | >| how to lay a conrete slab floor in my front room they are very welcome. | >| | >| I have a few questions. I'm ordering a minimix to deliver the concrete | >which | >| will be poured (4" thick) onto 2" of polystyrene insulation. | >| | >| 1. can I pour the slab (12' x 14') as one slab, rather than dividing it | >up? | >| | >| 2. how do I level it/tamp it - I was thinking of nailing/screwing boards | >| where the skirting used to be and using these to get the level correct, | >| and using these to rest a board on (with cut-outs on each end) for tamping | >| down. Any other suggestions? | >| | >| Thank you, | >| | >| Neil | > | >whilst you in there why not fit under floor heating pipes? last chance you | >will get to do it! | > | It begins with m and end in y. | Neil
oh.
;-)
rpm
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Shuttering is normally supported by pegs driven into the ground which you pull up when you remove the shuttering. So you don't need any walls to support it. But as you've got polystyrene underneath you won't want to drive pegs through. Cut lengths of wood, say 18" long, and put them between the shuttering and the wall, nailed to the shuttering to stop you kicking them out when you come to walk up and down the gap.
Rob
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Niel A. Farrow wrote:

Is this a concrete or a screed floor?
Conceret is layed wetter, is stronger and you idaelly bneed a molud and a pice of timber to run acrioss it to get it rigfht.
Screed is alyed almost dry, will support itself )not slump) and has no ballast in it, is wekare and contains airspaces, but a good screeder can level up a floor by building ridges using a level than trowelling, scraping and floating in between..

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Neil
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