Re: cheap alternative for kitchen worktop jig?

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Swallow hard and hire one (www.hirecenter.co.uk about 20 for the weekend) - it's impossible without one and use new cutters. But I managed three passable corner joins when 'doing' a kitchen upgrade with a friend and that was the first time I'd used a router!
Peter
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On 22 Sep 2003 09:54:54 -0700, clangers snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.co.uk (Steve North) wrote:

Which part of the country are you in?
The reason for asking is that I have just purchased one of these worktop jigs, and I would be willing to do a couple of freebies just to get some practice in.
PoP
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Thanks for the offer PoP :)
We're both in the same situation though because although I have used a router before, I have never used one with this type of jig so I need the practice myself!
Steve
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Steve North wrote:

Not done a 45, but I *have* done a straight cut withiut a jig.
If you use a cutter diameter roughly similar to the radius on the worktop, and stop at the 'show' end before breaking entirely through, you can fettle the last 10mm or so on the pieces to make a very close fitting join indeed. Any hole can be filled with colored epoxy or car body filler and are almost invisible.
The tric is that the cut is at 90 degrees except the bit over the radius, which is at 45 to get everything to line up. That last 45 cut can be done with a rasp, hand saw, or even a fine toothed jig saw - or if you are brave, the router.

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A straight 45 degree cut over the radius, no jig required! - damn where was my lateral thinking when I needed it. I like this idea. It's definitely going to be more fiddly than using a jig and will require patience to get it perfect but it saves me 100. I'm going to try it on a offcut to see how it goes. Thanks NP.
Steve
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Steve North wrote:

I did a worktop using this method with a jigsaw and a fine blade.
For the "receptive" half of the join I carefully marked out the main cut and the intersecting 45" cut - made the intersecting short cut first then the main one. (cut from the underside of the worktop unless you have a down cut blade for the jigsaw). Then simply cut the matching corner of the end of the other half. Finally I routed a 1/4" slot into the mating ends of the worktop - added wood glue and hammered in a wooden lath (a long biscuit if you like). Fitted the first half of the worktop in place and then tapped the mating part of worktop into place using a club hammer and a bit of scrap softwood to protect the end of the worktop. The join was not as "perfect" as you will get with the template - but a good deal less unsightly that those nasty joining strips!
--
Cheers,

John.

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clangers snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.co.uk (Steve North) wrote in

Not done it myself but the guy that did mine used a jig and it looks great. Looked at buying one myself too, didn;t think about the fact you can hire them until I'd paid someone 150 to cut two joints. Hmm!
Not trying to teach you to suck eggs here, but he used a bisuit cutter too to ensure the tops stayed level etc. Not something I would have thought of unless I saw him do it.
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On Mon, 22 Sep 2003 21:02:52 +0000 (UTC), Billy Whizz

75 a joint? Is that what they charge? Jeez, I'm in the wrong job!

I would have thought that was a potentially useful thing to do. Another option would be to lay in a couple of dowels across the joint.
PoP
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I think these - http://tinyurl.com/ocwb - are more commonly used these days, especially if like me you don't have a biscuit jointer.
Steve
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clangers snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.co.uk (Steve North) wrote in message

Can someone explain to me how you use one of those, I'm puzzled about it.
My natural inclination was to use a piece of flat metal underneath with holes in, screwed to the underside.
Regards, NT
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You drill two holes part way through the underside - a little like the euro-hinge fitting holes for kitchen doors.,
They're joined together with a straight dado (only about 2cm long) between them.
simply slot the fixing in, then tighten.
well, that's how I'bve seen them used anyway.
cheers Richard
-- Richard Sampson
email me at richard at olifant d-ot co do-t uk
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Forgot to say, that's what all these additional cutouts are for on the commercially available worktop jigs. Routing the cutouts.
cheers Richard -- Richard Sampson
email me at richard at olifant d-ot co do-t uk
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ahhh :)
thanks, NT
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On 23 Sep 2003 07:20:12 -0700, clangers snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.co.uk (Steve North) wrote:

Might be worth cosying up to SWMBO for an early Christmas present. Screwfix still have their "special offer" biscuit jointer for 34.99.
I bought one a short time ago. Maybe it isn't as good as those from well-known brands, but at about 10% of the price.....and it works fine for me.
PoP
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On 22 Sep 2003 13:57:51 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com (Michael McNeil) wrote:

I think it was 20 for a weekend.
I suppose it might be feasible to hire one of these out for a couple of days and then copy-route a duplicate from MDF or whatever. I'm not sure that would retain the accuracy in the copied version, but maybe it would be close enough if you used a router bit with a bearing follower.
Don't try this at home folks. You'd presumably be breaking copyright.
PoP
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Hi
That's what my kitchen fitter used. It was a copy of one of the 900mm jigs onto 18mm ply, made with a straight cutter and following bearing.
Worked just fine.
IanC
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On 23 Sep 2003 08:03:28 -0700, clowes snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com (Ian Clowes) wrote:

I'm almost tempted to create a copy for using "in the field", just in case I manage to bring the router into contact with the real thing one day. ;)
PoP
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That's one reason.
I think the guy was also a bit hacked off with having stuff nicked on site, from the van, etc.
This way he was able to protect his investment in this particular item, the 900mm ones being even more expensive than the 650mm ones.
Cheers IanC
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On 22 Sep 2003 13:57:51 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com (Michael McNeil) wrote:

Except for a neatly coped edge on an interior corner joint.
-- Smert' spamionam
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(Michael

It has been years since I've done one but I think that I got a good cut. The problem is in enuring the angle of the walls is 90 degrees. Of course the wall can be hacked to take an oversized top.
What you do is cut one then mark the other with it. And cut them overlength. An eightth is adequate.
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