Re: Cable clips on stone wall

I might take a photo of the run of clips along the outside here later on, the nail heads are just a large red rusty lump. OK they are still holding but it's only a matter of time before they do fail and removal will no doubt cause spalling at each one due to the expansion.

Anything "ordinary steel" outside here will be seriously rusty within

5 years. The quality of galvanised stuff is very variable, some things are just as installed (but not many) others are rusty.

I'm of the "if a jobs worth doing, it's worth doing properly, once".

Reply to
Dave Liquorice
Loading thread data ...

In message , " snipped-for-privacy@aol.com" writes

But are they 'normal' steel? They seem a minty bit harder (a bit like OBO masonry nails) - apart from those you buy in the 'pound' shops!

BTW, I'd never heard of 'pin plugs'. I have used the smallest size plastic 'Rawlplug' type, but the hole is usually too large for small pins, and need plugging (hence my laborious directly plugging of the hole first with decay-proof Plastic Padding (instead of wood).

Pin plugs sound ideal - if B&G really have them.

Reply to
Ian Jackson

I use the yellow plugs with 25 mm size 4 screws

Reply to
stuart noble

I use the yellow plugs with 25 mm size 4 screws

Reply to
stuart noble

I too am of that persuasion, but the industry uses steel pinned clips exclusively, and no-one seems to have a problem. I have pulled 40 year old cable off the wall and the pins have snapped due to corrosion, but coax only has a lifespan of 15 to 20 years anyway.

Do you live on the coast?

Bill

Reply to
wrightsaerials

They are a very hard type of steel, which is why the heads can break off and fly like a bullet.

Bill

Reply to
wrightsaerials

Try that on most Victorian house and you'll just knock chunks out of the pointing. The mortar is lime and often just has a thin portland cement layer as pointing. The bricks are usually softer.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

once".

Ah it's the good old builders, this is quick and simple but will fail down the line but I won't have to fix it so I don't care or if I do have to fix it it'll be so far down the line that I can charge for fixing it...

And you left the broken bits of pin in the wall to corode away more and eventually spall the surface. See above...

No on top of a hill and exposed. Rain and hill fog is pretty frequent.

Couple of screws I removed from the same down spout bracket yesterday, one brass, one steel:

formatting link
image in that set one screw is braely recognisable as a screw... The modern twin thread on the right has faired reasonably well but had to be cut out of the plastic plug, it wouldn't unscrew.

I moved the house name plate the other week. That had been fitted with brass screws, they simple unscrewed. That had probably been in place 20 or 30 years...

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

That's unreasonable. Cable clips are not the items that fail in an aerial installation.

That doesn't seem to be a problem in reality.

I can't ever remember a customer complaining about steel-pinned cable clips. They appear to provide a 100% customer-satisfying fixing. Who am I. or you, to tell people that they have to spend extra on something that is already totally satisfactory?

The object of the exercise it to provide a service -- a good service that's tailored to people's requirements. Not to change the world. I'd like it if every distribution system had a full set of channel filter/ levellers, but it ain't gonna happen.

Bill

Reply to
wrightsaerials

But if you knock out the portland cement pointing, you can repoint with lime mortar (which is even softer than soft brick), and then nail into that (and freeze-thaw won't damage your bricks any more).

Reply to
Martin Bonner

You just wouldn't believe it!

I don't keep the recently discussed pin plugs in the van, but have decided to do so, despite thinking that they will only get used once a blue moon. Then today, in a place 80 miles from home that takes an hour to get into and an hour to get out of, I found that I had to clip a cable 50ft along a concrete internal wall. There was no chance of clips going in -- the wall was so hard it was actually slow to drill. Push in cable tie holders and ties would have looked dreadful. In the end I cut the heads of some push-ins and used the stems as pin plugs. It worked fine.

Bill

Reply to
wrightsaerials

Maybe, but this house was pointed with Portland mortar long before I bought it and I've been here over 30 years. Using lime mortar (again) is a recent fad.

But then I don't nail things into it. Or bricks, come to that. Sure way to split them.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Sounds like a job for SDS man.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Bosch 24VRE, new SDS bit, new battery. Operative a bit worn out though.

Bill

Reply to
wrightsaerials

You need a regrind ;-)

Reply to
PeterC

You need a decent mains SDS for hard materials. Battery ones ain't got the oomph. But I do realise the problems there in your job.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

I don't have problems drilling any material, within reason. I would use a 110V SDS drill for repeated work using large diameter SDS bits or for a masonry-cutting core drill, but for anything upto 18mm diameter the 24V DC drill is fine. When I said drilling the holes in concrete was 'slow' I didn't mean it took ages, just that it was a bit slower than drilling brick, perhaps 8 to 12 secs for an 8mm x 30mm hole. I drilled 50 of the bastard things anyway!

Modern battery SDS drills are very good.

Bill

Reply to
wrightsaerials

So I guess you're allowed to clamber about on roofs without the need for scaffolding? I know roofers and chimney sweeps do it all the time, but is there some kind of cut off point beyond which HSE requires scaffolding?

Reply to
stuart noble

?- Hide quoted text -

I'm not sure how we got here from a discussion about battery drills, but we have to obey H & S like everyone else. There are certain activities where scaffolding would be essential, certain ones where it wouldn't contribute to safety, and ones where it's debatable. We tend to use access machinery more than scaffolding because the work is usually of short duration.

Bill

Reply to
wrightsaerials

A risk assessment needs to be made. If the job takes more than half an hour a ladder is unacceptable for access so scaffolding or cherry picker is needed, or else (for window cleaners etc.) a system for doing the job from ground level.

Reply to
<me9

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.