Quote Check- Baxi 105 Automatic Air Valve and more

[Chris Bartram]

My Mom has had a central heating boiler service and another bit of minor plumbing done by a local heating/plumbing co.

The prices for that seemed slightly on the high side, but the firm seem reliable, and the work was done. They've quoted for some more work, some of which she's asked for (on my advice) and some that they say is required.

The stuff she's asked for is a gas fire service- (it's a baxi living flame unit, about 20 years old IIRC), which they've quoted £85 for, and replacement of a pair of taps on a small handbasin in the downstairs WC, which they've quoted £95-145 estimated. The taps aren't anything special- very similar to

at under £20.

The other item is a automatic air vent for her Baxi 105E combi boiler- they're quoting £125, and it seems the part is between £10-20. As far as I know, the boiler isn't exhibiting any problems- what would be the symptoms if one failed?

I know that labour and overheads aren't free, but this seems a bit pricey. Opinions?

[harryagain]

Automatic air vents can either fail to open or fail to close. If it fails to open, air will be left trapped in the sytem so preventing the water from circulating.. If it fails to close, water will dribble out. Cost under a tenner.

Change the taps yourself. Changing the AAV would take about 30-60 minutes. depending on location. You could do that too. The longest job would be refilling the system.

[Tim+]

Would mostly agree but changing taps can turn into a real "buggeration" job. Fine if everything goes well but potential for grief.

Tim

[Andrew Gabriel]

It may be to make it easier to refill the system. If a sealed system keeps getting more air in it, then it has some microscopic leaks (or no corrosion inhibitor).

They don't like being left permanently open - dried deposits will form and prevent the seal working. Close it a day or two after refilling, and then momentarily open and close it for a few more days, and it will work fine. Might be worth fitting it on top of an isolating valve so it can be changed without a drain-down if it goes wrong. If it's to solve a continuous problem with air or gasses in a sealed system, its not really the right answer, although it may well be the pragmatic approach.

Some here:

[Chris Bartram]

That's exactly why I've not done it. I changed the toilet cistern ball valve last month, but access was easy and there's an isolator (there isn't one for the taps).

[Muddymike]

My Mom has had a central heating boiler service and another bit of minor

Are there isolation valves under the basin? If not a lot of time can be wasted draining down and re-filling the hot water system plus changing taps can take hours if the fittings are seized so that quote doesn't sound out of order.

Mine leaked letting water drip onto a circuit board leading to no heat one winter weekend.

Okay they only cost £15 or so but if the system needs draining (as mine did) before it can be fitted that's a lot of time draining, re-filling, bleeding rads, and cost of replacement additive. So again that quote seems fair.

Mike

[Tim+]

If there's a valve on the cold feed to the HW cylinder, very little water has to be drained off. If there isn't I would expect a decent plumber to have a bung to block the CW tank outlet. It's no big deal. Agree about seized tap fittings though. A real PITA.

Given that an air bleed valve is probably situated high in the system, not that much would need to be drained if it's an open system. Again, the rubber bung in the header tank trick could be done.

Tim

[Chris Bartram]

No isolators, but little draining, really, it's a combi.

The taps need changing because they are seized. I had planned to fit refurb kits but can't budge the valve body.....