Question about house re-wiring

I've heard lots of people stating that houses need re-wiring after 25 years or so, but can't for the life of me figure out why this should be the case. Copper tends not to corrode, and PVC stays flexible for many many years so is this 25 year thing designed to give electricians a good earner or is there some other reason? I'm curious as I am about to buy a 26 year old house which has not been re-wired and am wondering what to look out for.

Cheers

Hellraiser..........>

Reply to
Hellraiser
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A 26-year old installation is unlikely to require a complete rewire but a full inspection and test is probably in order. It might be worth considering replacing the consumer unit with a modern split-load one. It is also quite likely that the number of socket outlets will be insufficient for the number of electronic devices in most homes these days.

HTH

Reply to
Alistair Riddell

No PVC wiring will have yet worn out, providing it's not been subject to excessive heat or other damaging factors. The accessories (switches, sockets, consumer unit, etc) should all be regarded as potentially at end of life and in need of inspection and possibly replacement. All the earthing should be checked and ideally brought up to current standards. A 1980 installation might be slightly low on numbers of sockets, although not as bad as a 1960's installation. A check for extensions to the original system which have not been correctly done would be good too.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

Excellent, I can replace switches/sockets easily enough, I had to do that in the house I am in now. I don't believe the property has a consumer unit, how much would it cost (approx) to get one fitted? I notice that CUs themselves are quite cheap, but I am unsure of the amount of work needed to fit one, and obviously there would be the cost of MCBs etc on top, but just a very rough ballpark would do me for now. I am looking at getting the kitchen refitted so would most likely need a new ring main for that, would it be best to have a CU fitted at the same time and perhaps reduce the cost?

Sorry the questions are a little vague, but till I move in I can't provide much more info :)

Cheers

Hellraiser...........>

Reply to
Hellraiser

It must have one somewhere, unless it's been stolen and all the electricity is off.

Yes. Alternatively, engage an electrician to test the installation and replace CU if necessary when you move in, and to leave spare ways to connect up new kitchen circuits when you have that done.

I should have mentioned getting the installation tested in previous posting. It might flag up something more serious if you want to be sure of no surprises later, although personally I wouldn't bother for a 1980's house.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

yes, I meant it didn't have a modern CU, just a standard fusebox :)

Great, that sets my mind at rest - many thanks for your advice.

Hellraiser...........>

Reply to
Hellraiser

Hi;

I have changed several consumer unit to a modern day split un trip to replace those old fuse wire jobbies. Usually though one is stressed in sorting out the trip problems that occur after this, but after that no probs.

I also add loads of sockets as Alister says, as I reckon kit these days consume so little power that its even worth doubling tose old single sockets. Rather dates the present day Reg's that seems to be lagging behind reality.

One thing I do do now though, is always get rid of old Flouescent fitting as they will alway give you trip problems.

If you do have the floors etc up then its always worth running power for an Electric shower for when the gas runs out.

Regards Ian

Reply to
ipellew

What does a split load CU (as opposed to single) do, please ?

And why would you replace a single (maybe fused) with a split load one ?

Reply to
Ian_m

CUs tend to come with mcbs and RCD fitted. But I cant see any reason to replace your existing one. Its only worth replacing if its damaged, inadequate, or there is some specific problem with it. Wire fuses are still compliant for new installs.

what for? Ie I doubt it.

What problem are you trying to solve? I get the feeling you dont have one.

I would check switches, sockets, lights etc, and maybe add more sockets. I'd check it doesnt have a shower on the ring or something like that. Beyond that its upto you how much you want to spend, but really you're likely to see more return from spending on other areas.

Replacing a CU is far more work than replacing a fuse wire maybe twice.

NT

Reply to
meow2222

On Mon, 6 Feb 2006 16:58:53 -0000 someone who may be "Ian_m" wrote this:-

Generally, some circuits are protected by an RCD, like socket outlets, while other circuits are not, like lights. This has the advantage that a fault on an appliance will probably not plunge the whole house into darkness.

If one is replacing a consumer unit anyway, perhaps to get more ways, then there are advantages in going for a split one at the same time.

Personally I prefer cartridge fuses in a consumer unit to MCBs, because of the high breaking capacity, but most people are better off with MCBs.

Reply to
David Hansen

You could be right, I was just getting edgy as the surveyor mentioned that there was no modern CU there. If it works though....

Hellraiser...........>

Reply to
Hellraiser

He has to cover his arse. They often tell people to have drain inspections when nothings wrong. 80s wiring is not a cause for concern.

NT

Reply to
meow2222

That's a very sweeping statement. How can you say it is not a cause for concern?? Have you inspected every eighties electrical installation in the country

Reply to
Stephen Dawson

The fact that its 1980s is not a cause for concern.

Obviously that doesnt preclude problem for other reasons.

Why ask the d--- obvious? If the OP were retarded I dont think theyd be sat here asking these questions.

NT

Reply to
meow2222

Indeed. The initial question was one of deterioration of wiring over a period of time, I think the response was more along the lines of 1980's electrics being fairly durable and as such should not have deteriorated unduly unless they have been exposed to exceptional conditions (i.e. connections arcing due to them being too loose, etc).

Hellraiser...........>

Reply to
Hellraiser

Granted, the wiring my not have deteriorated since the 1980's but the terminations may have done, and in my experience PVC cale down break down, the termination points do. So to go back the the OP, have a periodic done by a competent sparks and ct on the information given.

Steve Dawson

Reply to
Stephen Dawson

I have got to get a new keyboard!!!

Reply to
Stephen Dawson

I fairly much concur. Just for clarity, what I meant was a 1980s install would have been upto a good safety standard when new, so the fact that it is 1980s is not in itself a cause for concern. As Steve says, some fittings may have deteriorated, particularly IME light switches, which tend to become stiff enough in action that they can stay in the halfway position, which isnt a good idea.

It is also possible for pvc cable to deteriorate, but this does not normally happen. If outdoor pvc cable is cracking up, replace. If its unpainted, paint with gloss paint to protect it from uv.

A periodic inspection can be done, but I'm not sure the return, ie safety improvement per money spent, is of as good a value as various other things you could do. Also you might get a list of recommendations that amount fo bringing it upto new standard, which in most cases I'm doubtful would gain any significant safety improvement.

Despite the popular perception of the dangers of electrickery, the reality is the death rate is orders of magnitude lower than deaths caused by stairs, and injuries are orders fo magnitude lower than those caused by beds, DIY accidents, and so on.

Perhaps at some point it could even be that improving your wiring could be more dangerous than any risk it removed :)

NT

Reply to
meow2222

Having recently changed my CU, on a 1980 house, I found the wiring to be in excellent condition. No insulation resistance problems, visually the wiring looks fine. The only point to note is that the cpc on the 2.5mm T+E is 1mm, not 1.5mm. MCBs disconnect in the event of a fault current much faster than fuses - if the cable is protected with a fuse, then the disconnect time and resistance is such that the cable will get too hot in the event of a fault, possibly causing damage (as I understand it, it

*isn't* a fire risk). Since I now have a shiny new CU with MCBs, no problem.

Since I'm gutting the kitchem, and moving a few sockets around, I'm going to rewire it anyway, but I'm in no rush to do the rest of the house.

Ben

Reply to
Ben Blaukopf

Well, that's nice to know - I tend to be immensely unlucky with most things house related (my house sale has fallen thru twice already and it looks like it might again unless my buyer gets his arse into gear) so it's good that there should be no problems :)

Cheers

Hellraiser..........>

Reply to
Hellraiser

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