question about hammer-in frame fixings

[Dave Stauntons]

Hello, I am fixing a new timber garage door frame to a brick wall.

I have bought some hammer-in frame fixings - but how do you actually use them?

The plastic sheath is 14cm long, 10mm in diameter, with a lip of diameter 13.5mm. My timber is 7cm thick.

What's puzzling me is that the end of the sheath obviously grips the brick, but what grips the wood?

I realise I'll need to drill a 10cm diameter hole in the brick. But will I need to drill a 13cm diameter hole in the wood, or 10cm? (Or a 10cm hole all the way through, but 13cm at the outside?)

Also how deep should the hole in the masonry be?

And when do I stop hammering and start screwing?

Thanks! Dave

[Dave Stauntons]

Dave Stauntons wrote in news:Xns9F335B32176D8davestauntons@94.75.214.90:

Is the timber gripped only by the lip of the sheath, acting like a washer??

Dave

[Heliotrope Smith]

Dave Stauntons wrote in news:Xns9F335D15E5F62davestauntons@94.75.214.90:

Drill the 10mm hole through the timber and brickwork and hammer in the whole fixing through the timber and into the brickwork.

The head of the fixing and the lip of the plug will finish on the surface of the frame.

--- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to [e-mail]

[Bill]

In message , Dave Stauntons writes

This may help, picture worth a 1000 words etc.

>And when do I stop hammering and start screwing?

A very good question :-)

[Dave Stauntons]

Heliotrope Smith wrote in news:Xns9F3361047819Bsmithheliotropemoc@202.177.16.121:

So no screwing required?

I'm wondering whether I've bought the right fixings. The vertical timbers will need to hold the gate-style garage doors?

Should I exchange them for screwable ones?

The ones I've got look identical to this:

(4 fins, 6 slots), although I paid 82p each, so the shop must have seen me coming!

Dave

[harryagain]

You drill a 10mm hole through the wood, change to10mm masonary drill & drill into masonary sufficient depth, push in the plastic bit until the lip is flush with the wood. Hammer the metal pin home. The screw slot/cross in the head is for taking it out.

>

[John Rumm]

Some are like this, but designed to be screwed the final stage when driving the screw home. The instructions supplied ought to indicate which you have.

[The Medway Handyman]

Or use a Bosch Multi Material Drill

[Bill]

In message , The Medway Handyman writes

As described by my local tool supplier as "the double glazing installers friend" If the Bosch one is like the unnamed one I got it is exceptionally useful, having destroyed the cutting edge on a few HSS bits when I've hit brick and concrete. It wasn't as good as the correct bit on any of the materials, but it worked and carried on regardless!!

[John Rumm]

The bosch ones are adequate on metal and wood - although not as good as the dedicated bits, however they are better on masonry than any masonry bit I have found this side of a SDS.

[Mark]

I generally treat like a wallplug. Remove the screw, hammer in the plug and then drive in screw. If I following the instructions I end up knackering the fitting.

[Dave Stauntons]

John Rumm wrote in news: [e-mail]:

I bought them out of a tray at a woodyard, so no packaging or instructions, but I suppose I could phone up and ask.

My concern is - are any "hammer-in" fixings (whether or not they are made to be screwed in at the final stage) of this size (10mm diameter, 140 mm length) likely to be strong enough to secure vertical frame timbers which will be holding gate-style garage doors? Or should I return them and swap them for some more traditional screw-in-all-the-way fixings?

My plan is not have a horizontal timber at the top of the door opening, because of the low height, so the vertical frame pieces will be held in place only by the fixings going into the brickwork.

The ones I've got look exactly like:

've bought 4 for each side, and each door will have two hinges and mass about 15-20kg.

Dave

[John Rumm]

I doubt there is much difference in performance between the hammer in and the screw in ones anyway. Usually they are not intended for heavy pull out resistance but for lateral restraint on frames.

Garage door posts would more typically be fixed with expanding sleeve anchors (aka rawl bolts).

15 - 20kg is not a particularly heavy door - so you may get away with the frame fixings.

[Martin Bonner]

In which case, you want to put three of the fixings near the top and one 1/4 the way from the bottom. The pull out forces will be greatest at the top (so you want to have more fixings there); you obviously need one at the bottom to stop the bottom wandering from side to side.

[js.b1]

If you want a conventional plug n screw, use Fischer SX10 (Ebay

170510749005 for =A31.35+0.90) plus long coach screws (hex head) and mudguard washers (inset into a hole rebate if necessary re clothing snag). The Fischer plugs are 4 way expansion nylon, far better than 2 way expansion polythene stuff.

Also use a 10mm multi construction bit from Bosch or Makita as mentioned, wonderful things.

Concrete screws (6mm brick to 6.5mm concrete hole) might be an alternative, uses a Torx drive for fantastic non-drive out & high torque usage. However like frame anchors if the area gets damp after about 10yrs you can get a rust expanded screw which is impossible to remove and cracks a brick. Found that a few times in very wet areas.

If the garage is soft blockwork you may be better with a resin fixed stud, mudguard washer in rebated holed, with double nuts over the top.