Pushfit plumbing question

Probably a rhetorical question, but I have just had a 15mm pushfit connector start weeping after 3 days, and I was just wondering how long I need to leave the others now before I can convince myself they are ok?
The joint that leaked wasn't a genuine JG Speedfit, but the rest are, I suppose that answers the question really... ;)
Lee
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Lee Blaver wrote:

Did the whole house with JG 2 years ago, no leaks.
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Lee Blaver wrote:

The integrity of the O ring is vital. So pipe must be smoothly cut and inserted carefully. I've not had a problem with any, even the cheaper B&Q branded ones.
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BillR wrote:

Ok I'll put it down to a dodgy fitting and stop worrying then...
The O ring looks ok, but the fitting didn't seem as secure on the pipe as the genuine ones, I wouldn't have used it if I hadn't been in a hurry ;)
Lee
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Lee Blaver wrote:

Maybe the grab ring was distorted..
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Had one Speedfit (tm) fail where the grab ring (plastic 'crown' shaped piece with metal teeth in the petals of the crown) seems to have split in 2. Had one Hep2O fail where the O ring split. Had one Speedfit weep where it went onto copper pipe which was a bit gritty or dented (forget which). Discovered that 22mm Speedfit doesn't work on 3/4" copper tube :-)
Just waiting for the rest .... :-/
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On Sat, 18 Oct 2003 23:50:47 +0100, "John Stumbles"

You are filling me with confidence about Speedfit fittings. I can't wait to give them a try.
PoP
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wrote:

piece
Had
went
Discovered
Use copper pipe (cheap) and brass or copper pushfit fitting. A better setup. These fittings are now the same price as plastic.
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wrote:

piece
Had
went
Discovered
Marley Equator is better. Available from large B&Q Warehouse and http://www.unifix-online.co.uk The fittings are steel encapsulated and the inserts are steel too, so less chance of warping.
Make sure all plastic fittings are clipped either side to avoid tension on the joint.
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wrote:

To put into perspective those are the failures I've had in hundreds of connectors. I've also had compression joints that have given me callbacks, solder joints that pissed water and I could never get leak-free, threaded joints on radiators and a hot water cylinder that I've had to drain down and re-make etc. All the fun of the game :-)
Generally I find pushfit more reliable than compression and a lot less fiddly than either compression or solder.
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wrote:

piece
Had
went
Discovered
Usually the poorer quality makes. Good Conex have never given me any problems in over 30 years. You get what you pay for.

Poor craftsmanship in making the joint.

Less fiddly that is for sure, but there is a price to pay, the are expensive and require more clipping around the joints to redce stress on the joint. Plastic pipe is suspect,depending on installation, on hot supplies. I find brass or copper pushfit fittings on copper pipe giving no problems at all. Yet! Brass or copper pushfit fitting using copper pipe is the best pushfit method, only using plastic where necessary: in garages, threading through inaccessible floors, where cemenet or plaster may cover the pipe.
Plastic has its usages. It is no panacea. It should be viewed objectively and only used whereit is best suited.
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John Stumbles wrote:

I would agree with you. No matter how much care you take sometimes joints just don't work especially when having to deal with existing arrangements (the norm).
The only problems I have had with push fits are (1) trying to get them to seal on curved pipe (2) Where they have not been pushed fully home - this is avoidable by checking the depth of insertion.
Sometimes - very occasionally the O ring gets snagged as you put the pipe in but there again that does not happen often and never on Kopex sliced copper.
My choice of fittings is something like this. Gas: Enfeed.
Water hidden: Hep2o pipe and John Guest fittings. Water exposed dry work: Enfeed + copper Water exposed wet pipes: Cuprofit + copper. [Note cuprofit are _very_ difficult to demount - treat as a once chance only].
Which leaves brass/chromeware to be used only for Stainless and as otherwise needed. I find that PTFE liquid resin is the best sealant to use on olives and saves a great deal of trouble. Silicone grease is also good.
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wrote:

shaped piece

2. Had

went
Discovered
You must have been using cheap compression joints as well. I have found over the years that good quality Conex, for example, there are "no" problems.
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writes

You must be in a minority of one then John, funny how everyone else is always out of step
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wrote in message> Had one Speedfit (tm) fail where the grab ring (plastic 'crown' shaped piece

I had one Hep20 fail on pressure test some time back, this was the because the grab ring was reversed - I had not checked as the fittings were new out of the bag.
The latest Hep20 have changed the design and you can't push a pipe into a reversed ring (new type grab rings are green - old type were white)
Rick
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BillR wrote:

Maybe, although it didn't really feel very secure in either side of the fitting. I was careful to cut the pipe square, using the cutter and used inserts. No sideways pressure on the joint either.
Possibly it needed a different method of fitting, or maybe it doesn't mate very well with Speedfit pipe. I'll have a look in the shop and see if they have any instructions, although I don't think I'll want to use that type again...
Lee
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Lee Blaver wrote:

The only trouble I ever had was the other way round i.e. normal comp fittings onto speedfit pipe. I did have the support sleeve in place but no amount of tightening would get a good seal in 2 places. Replaced pipe with Hep2O and it was fine.
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get
They recommend you wrap the olive in PTFE tape.
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If you pressure tested as per spec then no leaks should happen after the test.
For example I just pressure tested my underfloor heating system, about 2.5km of pipes - at 2.8 bar, and then had the screed put down while under pressure. Working pressure will be reduced to 1 bar once screed has cured.
Yesterday was a hard day with 23 tonne of fibre reinforced screed.
Rick
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