Problem screw

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Hi
I been having some problems. I have a leck trickle socket that has extra long screws holding the socket in place. Reason is the layers of cement and plaster were put on after the backbox. Anyway, I unscrewed only to find the threads stripped right off the screws. Now I can get the screws in, but they dont hold. I'm wondering what I can do. Any smart ideas welcome - access in the box is very very tight though. I cant use self tappers simply because there isnt anything that thin that long.
I spose I'll have to look for some extralong leck trickle screws, but its gonna be a pain to find them, and I'll pay p&p just for 2 screws - and I dont know if itll work then anyway. So any famous bodges welcome!
Regards, NT
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Fairly common I believe. Sheds have them.
--


Regards

John


"N. Thornton" < snipped-for-privacy@meeow.co.uk> wrote in message
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'ere
http://tinyurl.com/2zwtn
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In an earlier contribution to this discussion,

I would hazard a guess that the reason the threads stripped is that the screws have got the wrong threads for the back boxes. How old are the boxes? The standard changed from - was it 2BA to 3.5mm - or something like that, 2 or 3 decades ago - but there's still a lot of old boxes around. As others have said, you can buy long screws from the sheds - but they'll be to the current standard. Mind you, the threads in the boxes are probably shot as well. You really need new long screws and a long tap to re-make the threads in the boxes - or better still, replace the boxes and then repair the plasterwork around them.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
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Set Square wrote on Tuesday (13/01/2004) :

They were 4BA. Usually it is the thread in the boxes which strips. One dodge which might work is to bend the threaded metal tabs at a bit of an angle to the screws, so that they gain a little grip. Another way which might help is to pinch some tabs from another metal box, most 13 amp sockets have a couple unused. Araldite these in place behind the existing tabs.
--

Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (Lap)
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who knows what BA stands for ;)_

I use woodscrews - works fine
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On Wed, 14 Jan 2004 00:07:00 UTC, "Chris Oates" <none> wrote:

British Association...
--
Bob Eager
rde at tavi.co.uk
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I donated your prize to charity ;)
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On Wed, 14 Jan 2004 00:26:21 UTC, "Chris Oates" <none> wrote:

LOL!
--
Bob Eager
rde at tavi.co.uk
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"Chris Oates" <none> wrote in message

yeah but what size? I dont have anything 2 to 3" long in such a narrow width.
Regards, NT
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"> Stop cross posting, Stevie !

Tell me the group the OP intended it for?
I do not look in any of these except dvd. diy looks appropriate
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Set Square wrote in message ...

not go back. I would have thought the little threaded things in the box could be replaced but I've never seen them.
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On Wed, 14 Jan 2004 10:29:08 -0000, "stuart noble"

Ive used boxes where the bit the screw fits in to could be removed-it was helld by two lugs so it could move up and down but other boxes only have one fixed and one moveable Stuart
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wrote:

Ah, mystery solved. Its an old box.
Thanks, NT
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Get new screws of the same size but with nuts. Ensure lengths are sufficient to accommodate new additional nut widths behind box lugs, Drill clearance holes in the box lugs. Use araldite on nut faces and "glue" to back of lugs using temporary shorter screws to "clamp" into position. when araldite is beginning to harden, remove the temporary screws and leave until the araldite is reasonably hardened then screw in the new final screws.
Jaymack
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N. Thornton wrote:

Electrical screws of the long variety are available at most places that sell electricial bits.
If you have stripped the tin box, replace it.

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And even B&Q etc.

Rather a lot of work if it's buried in decorated plaster?
Drilling out the remains of the thread and glueing on a back nut is the easy solution - although finding 3.5mm nuts isn't easy. Maplin stock them, though.
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Dave Plowman snipped-for-privacy@argonet.co.uk London SW 12
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wrote:

though doing so without glueing up the thread of th enut (or the thread of the screw holding it) isn't trivial.

And CPC, Farnell and RS (aka TLC :-) IIRC
What would be useful is M3.5 threaded pillars or stud pillars (not sure if these are the correct names: I mean a piece of hex section brass with a female thread through it, or a female thread at one end and a male thread at the other). I'm sure they must be available somewhere - anyone know where?
-- John Stumbles -+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-|-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ -+ 1. There's no such thing as a free lunch. 2. The more something seems like a free lunch the more expensive it is.
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wrote:

PVC and Brass spacers http://tinyurl.com/2jby7 RS part number 606-709 for 25mm spacer both threads M3
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I use something like clear bostik it doesn't have to do anything more than hold the nut in place. A lick of grease on the thread should stop it sticking, but on the few occasions I've done this it's been ok without.

Just such a thing - a pillar with a male thread at one end, both 3.5, used to be available from MK. Haven't seen them around recently, though.
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Dave Plowman snipped-for-privacy@argonet.co.uk London SW 12
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