Pressure Testing Rads and Keston air intake

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Andrew wrote:

Pressure relief valve are usually 3-3.5 bar. I would charge them up to over this pressure. If they are only good for 3 bar then you may end up with gooky water all over your carpets if the pressure vessel fails and pressure rises right up.

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a cavity wall with standard brick outer skin (LBC Tudor), 75mm cavity filled with rockwool and block inner. The reason I ask is that the blocks are not 'breeze' blocks (about half the weight of concrete blocks) nor are they 'thermal' (1976 built). Each block has oblong holes going right through them vertically. I am using a U value of 0.5 on the Myson calculator, but else where I have seen 0.83.
Another problem is that the 'builders' who assembled this house dropped so much mortar down the cavity (and the gas flue blocks) that it is actually a solid wall up to about 6-8 inches ABOVE the dpc. Strangely enough there is no obvious sign of water penetration, The bridging of the cavity means I have a nasty cold radiator around the entire perimeter of the ground floor - what sort of correction should I allow for the actual boiler output needed. (Its actually less than 20Kw so the Keston won't have any problems).
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Andrew

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A non-thermal concrete block isn't likely to have much insulative capacity when compared with the 75mm of rockwool in the cavity, so it won't make much practical difference exactly what type of uninsulated block it is.
Using 75mm rockwool, unplastered, I get:
(100mm Topcrete): 0.40 (concrete blocks) (100mm TopLite7): 0.35 (insulated blocks)
To calculate around the bridged zone, just treat the bridged area as a solid brick wall for heat loss calculations. The U-value will be around 2.1 for this area. No wonder it feels cold!
Christian.
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Andrew wrote:

Well I hired a pressure tester for not very much..OK I had to fake the connectors up, but a pressure tester is a pump, some water in a trough and a pressure gauge. Can't see your problem...
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