I'm replacing the worktops in our utility room which, in itself, isn't a problem as it's a nice, rectangular shape with worktops down two sides, but I need a mitred right-angle join - I've never cut one of these before and understand that it's a bit of a steep learning curve for a one-off job, so I wondered if anyone knows anywhere around the Worthing/Brighton area that will sell a worktop pre-mitred and routed for the butterfly bolts
Perry
The chances that the corner you want the rear edge of the worktop to match to being 90 degrees is virtually zero. You might be able to find a kitchen installers who will cut for you but how you get the angle right remote from the kitchen would be tricky. Even a tiny error will be magnified by a couple of metres of worktop.
Hard to see how that can happen as worktops are essentially bespoke for their application - the lengths of the 'L's are infinitely variable when you think about it. Apart from that, you can guarantee that if you were able to buy one with the slots for the butterfly bolts pre-routed, they would coincide with the position of struts etc in the units below preventing access.
If you don't want to diy the obvious solution is just to hire a kitchen fitter/joiner to fit the worktops (as I've done myself in the past).
David
Usually done on site and not cheap. It's not really a steep learning curve if you've a proper template and a router.
As a precaution don't cut the worktops to length until the mitre is done. Then you'll have scope for another go if you b. it up.
mark
though only on one side of the join
tim
On Wed, 4 Nov 2009 10:24:32 -0000, "mark" waxed lyrical about:
OK it looks like I'll have to attempt it...
I've found this set of instructions
And a worktop jig (with a free router bit) on eBay - does this look OK? - and the same seller does the bolts.
Yes that looks like a decent jig. Make sure you clamp the jig to the worktop really tightly with some decent G clamps not those quick clamp things.
envisage getting much use from it:
Presumably you already have a 1/2" router and 30mm guide bush. Otherwise you can add a fiver for the guide bush and =A350 to =A3200 for a router.
Like you say, it rapidly gets to the point where it'd be as cheap to get someone to do it, and they'd have to pay for the replacement worktops if it went wrong.
Are joint strips soooo bad? Masons mitre joints are a 'must have' fashion accessory IMO. A right PITA to cut, and bloody unreliable - I've seen loads & loads that have come adrift. Once adrift they are buggered, let water in & look horrible.
Do the maths. Get in a pro for £100-£150 to do the job, spend £300+ to buy the DIY kit - or spend £8 on an aluminium trim. Run a bead of clear silicone under the edges and you have a 100% reliable waterproof joint that takes care of any variable in the corner.
No brainer IMO.
On Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:48:17 GMT, "The Medway Handyman" waxed lyrical about:
That's all very well but, on one hand SWMBO won't allow the strips because "they look 'nasty' and trap dirt" and, on the other hand, I don't like them because they'd be a constant reminder that I couldn't be arsed to do the job properly. If I really don't think that I can do something to the standard that I expect, or if I just haven't got the time, I'll pay someone else to do it, but I prefer to do it myself if I can - I like learning new skills, I get it done the way *I* want it, and it's a nice contrast to being in an office all week.
That said, due to my worries about buggering up an £80 worktop with my first attempt at a mason's mitre, I've gone for a slightly different approach and, hopefully, managed to sidestep both the mitre and joint strips.
I've spent a (little) bit more on the worktop and got hold of a 3m
620mm x 40mm solid oak one at a very reasonable price and, as this has square edges instead of a post-formed curve, I should be able to butt-join the 90 degree turn. As I understand it, I just need to route out some butterfly bolt slots, add some biscuits for vertical alignment and all should be OK. I should also be able to route a nice radius curve into the 'floating' end of the L shape without faffing about getting the finish right with stick-on edging.And, for no reason other than because I want to learn to cut one, I decided to buy the jig I mentioned earlier so I'll be able to have a few leisurely practice goes at a mitre joint on the sections of worktop that I remove. I know that I could have done this anyway before trying it with the proper worktop but was concerned that it might turn out to be something that I'll need a fair amount of practice to master and time constraints mean that I need to get the current worktop out and the new one fitted in one day.
I disagree that mason mitres are a must have fashion . They make a kitchen look finished. Why would they come adrift if done properly? I seal the raw edges of mine and run in a squidge of similar coloured silcon. If the underside bolts are tightened and the work top is fixed to the units, it doesn't stand a lot of chance of coming adrift.
As for coming adrift and looking horrible, the metal strips look horrible from day one, especially with a thin strip of trapped crud down either edge. It all comes down to what standards you set yourself I suppose.
mark
mark
Dunno how they have been done, but I see loads that have come adrift.
Hence the clear silicone to prevent the crud build up.
Only if you live somewhere like Uzbekistan or Peru. You'll probably be the talk of the village.
michael adams
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Haven't responded so far because a) thought someone else would already have written that pre-mitred worktops were available; b) it was some time ago I saw them and I don't know if they still are available. Somehow, I doubt it.
'Twas in Homebase, probably around four or five years ago, they had a length of worktop with both ends mitred and routed. You choose where between those mitres to do a single straight cut.
I thought it quite a good idea but there were inevitable problems such as:
You require a worktop with two mitres or indeed anything other than a simple 'L'. The room isn't square. The very limited range of finishes available in this form. Excess cost and waste if every piece of worktop has to be bought in this form in order to match up properly. The limited maximum length of a single run.
Thanks, that would have been ideal - as long as they had a worktop colour/pattern that met with SWMBO's approval :-)
Unfortunately the bits have been paid for and the new length of worktop arrives tomorrow - just got to buy some Rustins and remember to oil the bottom a couple of times *before* it's screwed in place
Perry
Well I've done it!!! and, if I do say so myself, it looks great :-)
First time I've had to use a router for lots of cuts on thick (40mm) oak and it was hard work - my router was easily up to the job (a Trend T11), but I wish I'd known how quickly oak seems to blunt the cutter, I only had one 50mm cutter and could really have done with 2 (or 3)
In the end it took 2 days because I kept making templates and jigs, I wanted to get nice curves on the pipe cutout and to put a not-quite-radius curve on the exposed end
It's all dry fitted - not screwed into place yet as waiting for a delivery of some Rustin's to oil the wood. Once I've applied a couple of coats to the bottom and back I'll be able to fix it down and then carry on applying oil to the top.
A quick question, if I may - the worktop doesn't have any cabinets underneath, but does have a washing machine and tumble dryer (externally vented), there's about 30mm clearance between the top of the appliances and the bottom of the worktop and there should be plenty of air circulation. Given that I'm going to apply a couple of coats of oil, is it worth fixing a vapour barrier (?plastic sheet?) to the bottom of the worktop in the area above the appliances?
Perry
Tip. Rough it with a jigsaw and only side shave the last mm or two.
yes.
I'll try that next time, although my battered old jigsaw now struggles a bit with 12mm ply, so it'd sh*t itself if I asked it to cut 40mm oak :-)
I'll have to add a new jigsaw to my Christmas list...
I know it's too late for you now, but in case anyone else is interested about 4 years ago I bought some pre mitred ones from Homebase (yeah yeah...I know). Each length came with a "male" mitre at one end and a female one at the other, so you just cut off the end you don't want. Supplied with the butterfly fixings. 3m lengths I think.
Had to be ordered in and delivered, not kept in store. Dunno if they still do them.
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