Just moved into new place, cottage with tiled floors, thick walls and no prospect of running cable neatly. Wireless works but only get 10Mbps.
So looking for recommends for powerline adapters. Quality and reliability more important than price.
Anyone?
I use them to link to my backup drive in the detached garage.
I started off with Devolo units which I selected partly on the fact that they had flying leads rather than being of the huge wall-wart variety. They worked OK but one failed after a year or two, and when I bought a replacement that didn't last very long either.
Then I bought a pair of TrendNet TPL-401E units, which *are* large wall-warts, but I also have a TrendNet wireless router which has impressive performance and reliability so I trusted the brand a bit. The powerline adapters work extremely well and I had to scrabble under the desk to see what they were because I haven't given them a moment's thought since installing them a few years ago.
HTH
Not even via the loft and down corners of rooms behind doors inside the smallest box conduit you can get (15 sq mm?)? The boxed in internal soil stack, if you have one, can be handy as well.
Is that with the AP placed in a good location for it, like in the apex of the roof so it can "see" down into most of the building through the floors or sat under a desk in a rats nest of cables against a wall at one end of the property where the phone line just happens to be?
I'd try really hard to get cables in but then I also want to listen to HF radio, failing cables WiFi but with the AP (just the AP, not modem, router, switch and AP all in one box) sited for coverage not convenience, last resort powerline...
I have 2 TP Link adaptors and find that they work as expected. I've had them in use for over a year now, and they still work as they should.
I used to use a TP Link router which worked great, so that's why I went for the TP Link brand.
I've got Ebuyer's own brand adapters which work well but seem to go out of stock frequently (as they are now!).
Whichever you get, try to get pass-through adapters to preserve the 13 amp socket you're using.
In article , Dave Liquorice writes
There isn't one. Ceilings taken up to rafters, celotex and insulation behind. Velux skylights. Lovely in summer :-)
The run is awkward (I want to get from downstairs to upstairs), it would mean drilling through two 3ft thick walls, and box conduit would be very visible even if painted over. No covings to try and thread behind.
Going out through the 3ft thick wall, round the outside (hidden under bell casting at bottom of render) then up the wall and in is a possibility but a lot of work and I CBA.
There isn't one :-) Stack is external
Almost line of sight. Full signal strength shown. Adapter in the PC is only b I think, and it's not upgradeable (Asus eeePC). Conversely, it has 100Mbit hard wired ethernet.
I'd love to. Last place I was in had suspended floors, when the heating engineers installed a new CH system, I took advantage of the lifted boards to run Cat5 everywhere with patch panel in the understairs cupboard.
It's not going to be that easy in this place :-)
That's where I am, last resort. Apologies in advance to any radio amateurs in the vicinity.
In article , Mike Tomlinson writes
Thanks for the replies. TP-Link seem to have a good reputation, and indeed one poster has replied to recommend them, so I've ordered this:
I'm growing to like TP-link stuff; it seems to be good value for money.
I've used 'mymemory' outside of eBay in the past. No issues, but delivery tends to be slow as they are offshore.
Chris
I'm growing to like TP-link stuff; it seems to be good value for money.
I've used 'mymemory' outside of eBay in the past. No issues, but delivery tends to be slow as they are offshore.
Chris
Rather than moaning about it and being "dog in the manger" I'm firmly of the opinion that we should be working with users and manufacturers to mitigate issues. Personally, I suspect something as simple as ferrites on the ring main at the distribution board would lower the incidence of interference vastly. If you keep the RF on the balanced parts of the mains (flat twin and earth isn't that bad) and stop it leaking into coaxial supply lines, in theory there should be very little problem.
Needs experimentation and co-operation, though. I'll make no bones about it, radio amateurs can be a stubborn, uncaring lot and we do ourselves no favours with this attitude. When someone starts throwing the "ban" word about they've usually lost all sympathy they may have once had.
In article , Chronos writes
Wouldn't that attenuate the powerline signal, and prevent it transferring across rings on different breakers/circuits? Similar thing to when the makers of the adapters tell you not to plug them into surge protected strips, as the surge protection kills the signal.
RF chokes on the cables between the CU and the meter? Making a few turns might be a bit tricky though :-)
Can't say I had noticed :-)
Quite right, but if you think about it, confining the signal to the ring main for the sockets is a double whammy: You're not radiating interference and it also keeps some interference from the utility feed out of your ring main.
Multiple turns isn't really a problem as long as you can get a large lump of magnetic material onto the cable.
That's an idea, although we want equal and opposite not to be affected, while blocking common mode currents. That means both conductors need to pass through the same former. I've not seen clip-on ferrites that big :)
Dwarf walls? Space behind (damn missed that straw...).
That's why I suggested hiding the conduit in the corner behind a door.
+------- |c D-o-o-r| |
Door open all you'll see is the top 18" or so which is above your eyeline. Door closed, well I don't sit in a room looking at the door ...
Is 10 Mbps a real limitation? How fast is your incoming internet? and an eeePC isn't exactly high powered either so would not make full use of 100 Mbps if shifting large files locally.
Their wifi products seem to perform very well.
Check for one thing - a friend bought a dual band 2.4/5GHz router/AP, and it'll only do one or the other frequency, not both simultaneously. Feh.
Not sure which model, I'm afraid.
Cheers - Jaimie
In article , Dave Liquorice writes
It is actually dot-and-dab and plasterboard on old brick walls, but the gap is filled with polystyrene insulation. I've managed to do a couple of short runs, to add sockets and a wall light, by poking cables through the insulation, but a long one (floor to ceiling) isn't gonna work.
Did think of that, but the door's in the wrong place. To get the cable to where I want it downstairs, I'd have to come down behind the door (which is in a corner), and right around the perimeter of the room. Solid floors, no skirtings. Then upstairs, there's a doorway and a fireplace in the way, and an engineered wood floor which I'm not ripping up.
Yes, I stream video and music from a media server, and run nightly backups too. It's probably perfectly safe, but I don't like running backups over something as ephemeral as wireless.
Not relevant as I need the link for media streaming and backup, not internet, but it's ~13Mbps. FTTC cabinet has just arrived in the street, and the BT line checker promises 79Mbps :-)
The eeePC displays stuff from a media server on my big TV.
The media server and backup server which will be going on the other end of the link. They have gigabit interfaces but if I can get 100Mbps over the powerline adapters, I'll be happy.
Trust me, I would very much prefer a cable, but have a lot of other things going on right now. Will revisit it when I'm settled and have time.
That's a common limitation IIRC.
Less so than it used to be. For example, VM's original Superhub is 'either/or', whereas the latest version allows concurrent dual-band.
Chris
Less so than it used to be. For example, VM's original Superhub is 'either/or', whereas the latest version allows concurrent dual-band.
Chris
Less so than it used to be. For example, VM's original Superhub is 'either/or', whereas the latest version allows concurrent dual-band.
Chris
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