Polystyrene coving - stopping cracks from appearing at joints

Anyone know how to stop cracks from appearing at the joints between sections of polystyrene coving? I gues glassfibre tissue imbedded in the emulsion when painting might do it - but has anyone tried anything that's easier to obtain? Loo paper, perhaps?
Jake
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On Sat, 05 Jul 2003 17:22:04 GMT, "BigWallop"

Do you mean that acrylic decorators filler? Does that really work? Have you tried it? I would have thought that if it was applied thin enough to avoid spoiling the smoothness of the coving, it would be too thin to prevent the cracks appearing....
Jake
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wrote:

LOL
That's what decorators use it for. It's more like a thick paint paste than silicone sealant, but I use loads of it for making good any drill holes around cables in customers houses and that way they can just paint over it when they next decorate. It's great stuff to work with because it's not all sticky and gungey like sealant and it smoothes off with the wipe of licked finger. Go on. Buy a tube and be baptised into wonderful world of decorators caulk. :-))
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wrote:

And before you buy it compare prices in the sheds to decorators merchants etc . The latter usually sell a bigger cartridge which means getting the bigger capacity gun but the tubes are a lot cheaper I find Stuart ---------
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Jake wrote:

Yes, possibly. We aeromodellers use this stuff a fair bit, and here are some of teh techniques that you can try.
(i) Glue the sections togther with epoxy. It works.
(ii) Use a stressed skin over the top: For ultra light weight we use modelling tissue - its tougher then bog paper. Its sort of similar to what you get jewellry wrapped in? However were weight is less an issue the most incredibly stroing structures are made using.
(iii) foam covered with brown parcel paper. Yes. Up top 50lb jet turbine models. I would suggest that you might even be able to use the parcel tape - the paper sort with water soluble glue - directly, but the generally used method is to soak the paper in a 50/50 PVA/water mix, and apply like wallpaper. In fact, lining paper applied with either wallpaper paste or PVA diluted is probably as good as you don't need the ultimate strength/weight etc.
Then of course we spray up with car body primer, rubbing down before applying fimnal camouflage finish with an airbrush...but I suspect a coat of emulsion would meet YOUR needs :-)
Th secret is to stabilise the foam by gluing it in place, use filler to get a reasonably smooth finish, and a shrinkable stressed skin to bond the surface completely.
Or by the coving that is alrady made like this (plasterboard) :-)

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