Anyone know how to stop cracks from appearing at the joints between
sections of polystyrene coving? I gues glassfibre tissue imbedded in
the emulsion when painting might do it - but has anyone tried anything
that's easier to obtain? Loo paper, perhaps?
Do you mean that acrylic decorators filler? Does that really work?
Have you tried it? I would have thought that if it was applied thin
enough to avoid spoiling the smoothness of the coving, it would be too
thin to prevent the cracks appearing....
Q: "Where do you keep your kaulk?
A: "Where I keep my cork is my business."
That's what decorators use it for. It's more like a thick paint paste than
silicone sealant, but I use loads of it for making good any drill holes
around cables in customers houses and that way they can just paint over it
when they next decorate. It's great stuff to work with because it's not all
sticky and gungey like sealant and it smoothes off with the wipe of licked
finger. Go on. Buy a tube and be baptised into wonderful world of
decorators caulk. :-))
And before you buy it compare prices in the sheds to decorators merchants
etc . The latter usually sell a bigger cartridge which means getting the
bigger capacity gun but the tubes are a lot cheaper I find
Remove YOURPANTS before E-mailing Me
Yes, possibly. We aeromodellers use this stuff a fair bit, and here are
some of teh techniques that you can try.
(i) Glue the sections togther with epoxy. It works.
(ii) Use a stressed skin over the top: For ultra light weight we use
modelling tissue - its tougher then bog paper. Its sort of similar to
what you get jewellry wrapped in? However were weight is less an issue
the most incredibly stroing structures are made using.
(iii) foam covered with brown parcel paper. Yes. Up top 50lb jet turbine
models. I would suggest that you might even be able to use the parcel
tape - the paper sort with water soluble glue - directly, but the
generally used method is to soak the paper in a 50/50 PVA/water mix, and
apply like wallpaper. In fact, lining paper applied with either
wallpaper paste or PVA diluted is probably as good as you don't need the
ultimate strength/weight etc.
Then of course we spray up with car body primer, rubbing down before
applying fimnal camouflage finish with an airbrush...but I suspect a
coat of emulsion would meet YOUR needs :-)
Th secret is to stabilise the foam by gluing it in place, use filler to
get a reasonably smooth finish, and a shrinkable stressed skin to bond
the surface completely.
Or by the coving that is alrady made like this (plasterboard) :-)
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