I think they're very good: over 100 lm/watt, standard GLS shape, instant on. But, the "glass" is some sort of plastic, my guess is it's polycarbonate.
The recent thread on plastic lens clouding makes me wonder if it'll start to yellow and go cloudy in years to come like modern car headlights do.
It probably wouldn't be an issue on an old-fashioned 1000 hour bulb, but these things are supposed to last tens of thousands of hours if the claims are to be believed.
The headlight lenses on my fifteen-year-old car certanly have. Although it's as miuch clouding as yellowing. I think they're ploycarbonate. But they are exposed to the sun most of the time.
But the point about UV is a good one. I'd expect that most of the damage that causes clouding/yellowing would be caused by shorter wavelengths.
Ah, I've been looking at those - I wish they could be E14 and candle as well. I have a fitting with 3 of Ledlam's 3W, 320 lm E14 lamps and they are also good. They're only a couple of months old, so no indication of yellowing (yet). I hadn't realised that the covers were polycarbonate (possibly these aren't and treated them as glass).
BTW, what about that delivery charge? It's really put me of as it'd be nearly £15 for 5 of them!
I think they're about the best for efficiency at 120 lm/w. But with the wattage coming down into single digits I wish they'd show the power usage to tenths of a watt.
I can't understand why they can't offer them all in all four fitting types either. OK, perhaps forget the small bayonet because that's fairly rare, but ES, SES and BC are all common nowadays.
I also wish they'd offer the same type of thing in a golf-ball format as well as GLS. I think the active part would fit. Perhaps it's a heat dissipation issue.
They seem to light and warm for glass, and the fingernail-flick-test indicates it's some kind of plastic.
Yes, I think it's partly a way to get the headline price down. I bought two for a total of GBP 16.97.
It's my first foray into LED lights. Now they're getting over 100 lm/w, they're starting to make commercial sense. Well, assuming I dont move house in the next few years.
The other, just on the margin of lm/W, is the Sebson 4.5W at 400lm. Same price, no delivery.
formatting link
with reductions for quantity.
Both cap and envelope affect the choice of luminaire. My new one would accept only candle or G9 in the shades due to the orifice (ooer!). Also most fittings are physically OK with candle or golf ball - the lamp doesn't stick out like the CFLs do.
Well, I suppose 3 quid over 5 lamps isn't too bad.
Well, we had a greenhouse with some polycarbonate curved pieces, and they never went yellow or cloudy, instead after many years they just went the way of plastic and went brittle and cracked, but this took nearly 2-0 years! However one got broken and was replaced by what looked to be exactly the same material, though from another source and that started to go yellow in two years, milky in 5 and fell to beits shortly thereafter. The moral seems to be, get good quality sheets, but how the heck you can tell is anyone's guess.
Yes, tenths of a watt would be like mAh for cells - too precise to measure.
The LEDs themselves are well dispersed and COB-ceramic is a good structure; the open mounting allows those to cool. As for the driver, I've more or less decided to go for multi-arm fittings (3 or more, depending on the room), partly for the better lighting and partly so that the horizontal lamps don't heat the base so much. Hope is a grand thing.
Don't you have a "may come in useful one day" stash of incandesants? If not wander down to a pound shop or similar and buy enough cheapo incandescants to put in place of the LEDs should you move.
It's always useful to have an incandescent about somewhere. CFL's and LED's don't reduce their light output much if the mains voltage is low.
It's happened here twice, volts down to 130 odd. CFL's all working, LED's working, anything with a SMPSU working, stuff powered via a lump of iron not working. All very confusing when you are half asleep having been woken at 0400 by "something".
An 60 W incandescant at 130 V is very brown and dim.
11 kV Line fault conditions. First was after an ice storm brought the lines down in over half a dozen places and the shocks (physical) snapped three or four poles. Second was the other week, bit of tree on line, started with short outage, presumably the auto-recloser tripping and resetting but when it came back it was at 130 V.
On the second I reported the fault within 5 mins of it happening just before 2200, got a call from engineers a couple of minutes after that and they knocked on the door at 2330. Lots of head scratching, we are on a single phase spur from the main 3 phase line, so if any of our spur was disconnected we'd have no supply.
A certain amount of head scratching on part of engineers on how it was happening, some sort of feed through two windings of the 33 - 11 kV transformer? Due to a broken line in the 3 phase section, this is only fed from one end so a broken line on the live side that is not dangling on the ground will produce an open circuit so nothing to trip the recloser. I think...
I did go around switch lots of things off... The telly really objected, it would try to start up, fail, try again, etc. Lot's of relay clicking, the plug top isn't easy to get at but the IEC on the back is...
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