Points changer finished

you have a hacksaw and an angle grinder?

Are those bit manufactured from mild steel though? I wonder how long they'll stay nice a shiny inside a damp box or how long before they are a pile of brown bits?

A good all over splathering with a heavy waterproof grease should stop that though.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice
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The big square bits are mild steel. My theory is that they are thick enough to last for a while. The rubbing surfaces will clear themselves of rust I hope! All the other parts are galvanised.

Here's the first points changer that I made, after a few months use. The hole gets completely filled with water for hours after heavy rain. I painted it with some kind of maybe zinc-based paint. There's not much in the way of rust yet.

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Reply to
Matty F

Thanks! I have not done any tiling yet so I need to learn. I can cut tiles with my angle grinder and a diamond blade, right? I have about a ton of tile offcuts from the job next door. The professional tilers couldn't seem to put the tiles on straight:

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Reply to
Matty F

Nah! Quick spray with the guvnor - WD40 will sort that.

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

On Thu, 01 Oct 2009 22:59:07 GMT, "The Medway Handyman" had this to say:

Waxoyl's much better.

Reply to
Frank Erskine

You can but I suspect a better job can be done with one of the diamond bladed tile table saws.

"good night out". B-)

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

Just bolt a big bit of zinc to them somewhere, the zinc corrodes in preference to the steel (exactly how galvanising works). Bear in mind it will corrode in preference to all the iron connected to it electrically, rails, etc. so the bigger the better, probably. You can setup a maintenance schedule to replace the zinc once you get an idea how long it lasts. IIRC the Sydney opera house uses blocks of zinc bolted on to stop it corroding.

Reply to
dennis

If you are feeling sick, the toilet is on the other side of the bathroom!

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Reply to
Matty F

waste pipe in the wall or fit a pedestal to hide it?

Reply to
Andy Burns

Reply to
Jon Fairbairn

Agreed but it's "designer" stuff, practicalities like the required plumbing don't enter in the red rimed glasses, pointy hair, brigades tiny little minds.

Yes maybe the waste could have been taken back into the wall but you'd still see the trap hanging down. Which I can't see a real reason for either. The bowl of the basin isn't a deep as that would infer is it? ie about 18". Messy, full stop. I wonder how long the waste will last before it gets a hard enough whack from a foot/mop/WHY to fracture it?

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

Reply to
Graham.

(Or these days, hard-face it with a welder and then grind to shape)

Reply to
Andy Dingley

The roller does roll over the nose very well. Surely there would be no significant wear?

Reply to
Matty F

The points mechanism is connected electrically to about 5 miles of tram line. How big a block of zinc would I need?

Reply to
Matty F

add a small waste disposal unit)

Reply to
Bob Eager

Today, when clean. How about in a year from now, when it's full of crud? Or if the roller becomes sticky to turn?

Reply to
Andy Dingley

A man checks and cleans them every week.

Reply to
Matty F

Try a few kilos. The zinc on the galvanised bit isn't going to last long.

Reply to
dennis

I suspect the weak spot might actually end up being the guide plate which the plunger sits in - there must be a bit of sideways force on the plunger every time it operates, and eventually it'll wear through or start to stick.

(for version 2, or 3, I suppose you could have some sort of bearing either side of the plunger at the mouth of the guide to better take the sideways load - but maybe that's 20 years down the road or whatnot when the current design does finally wear out ;-)

cheers

Jules

Reply to
Jules

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