plywood for barn

I plan to use 12mm shuttering ply as the inner skin (between the insulation and the internal exposed studwork).

Temporarily it might have to withstand some weather as it will take me weeks to get the cladding finished.

I have an idea to apply a coat of white paint to the inside surface before erecting, much easier than after:-) Paint cost is going to be significant as there are about 30 sheets of 8'x4' to do.

Several questions spring from this.... would a kitchen/bathroom type emulsion be best to provide some form of vapour barrier? Will coating one side only lead to significant warping if the exterior gets wet? Is temperature an issue when applying this sort of paint? Any other considerations?

regards

Reply to
Tim Lamb
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Shuttering ply can soon moulder when rained on. Lime paint would discourage that, emulsion doesnt. I wouldnt regard emulsion as a VB.

NT

Reply to
Tabby

OSB3 OSB4 ?

Vapour membrane over the outside, tyvek?

Reply to
js.b1

I wouldn't worry. This (wooden) house was soaked many time before the roof went on.

As long as its pressure treated and allowed to dry before finishing, then no big deal. Most lumber is stored in relatively unheated wood yards often with nothing over it.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

if by soon you meana year or two, yes.

when rained on.

No, when left wet.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Best idea yet if you must do anything.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

coating

Tim, when I did my barn I used a breathable membrane outside under the weather boarding, and I used cheap Screwfix polythene sheets on the inside over the insulation really just to hold it in place. This had the advantage that the building was waterproof as soon as the membrane went on.

AWEM

Reply to
Andrew Mawson

In message , Andrew Mawson writes

How robust is Tyvek or your waterproof membrane? Wind damage worries if it is only secured with a few temporary battens.

I was going to leave putting on the insulation until I am ready to do the feather edge cladding. A more professional route would be to get all the siding finished before getting in some help to speed up the assembly. The feather edge has to be painted before fitting and this takes forever.

There shouldn't be a huge amount of moisture trying to get out of this barn but one of the possible future uses includes Snail rearing where I would have to create an atmosphere similar to equatorial Africa!

regards

Reply to
Tim Lamb

Not pressure treated. This is Oak from dead standing trees with pre-existing beetle damage.

I am treating the joints as I go but intend to brush on a Borate solution before final erection.

regards

Reply to
Tim Lamb

It's pretty tough stuff. The trick would be to make sure the wind can't find an edge and start tugging it. Not sure how well it stands up to UV.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

This would only be a few weeks so UV (Winter time) not really an issue.

regards

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Reply to
Tim Lamb

Tim - whatever your source of inside membrane, get yourself a staple gun for putting it up; I use a hand one for the insulation and membrane in my small workshop, but would have appreciate a powered one. The problem then is battery or mains - tangly cable and lightweight, but cheap, versus cost, weight and convenience.

Rob

Reply to
robgraham

surface

membrane

Tim - whatever your source of inside membrane, get yourself a staple gun for putting it up; I use a hand one for the insulation and membrane in my small workshop, but would have appreciate a powered one. The problem then is battery or mains - tangly cable and lightweight, but cheap, versus cost, weight and convenience.

Rob

I'll second the recomendation for a staple gun - I bought a hand one and it was fine. Remember to place the hoop of the staple so that the tension is taken by both prongs - you can rip the membrane if you go a 90 degrees so both are in line with the tension. When the membrane is wrapped round the barn, nail battens at the corners to stop the wind pulling it off.

AWEM

Reply to
Andrew Mawson

In message , Andrew Mawson writes

OK. I'm not yet convinced I'll need a membrane. The insulation joints will be taped under the feather edge. There will be 25mm vertical battens to nail feather edge to and also provide ventilation. The inside will be 12 mm shuttering ply, partly to hide the insulation and initially to protect the framing.

One of my tenants has a pneumatic staple gun and I'll check to see if it takes suitable staples.

Making the framing is going to take about 2 weeks at my present speed.

regards

Reply to
Tim Lamb

m...

other

under

staple

membrane

joints

speed.

I strongly advise use of the membrane for longevity - in the scale of things it's not hugely expensive. I put the membrane on, then battened in 1x2 down each stud before putting the weather boarding on. This has the big advantage that it leaves an air gap behind the weather boarding to stop rot in the very place you cannot get the creosote in subsequent years.

AWEM

Reply to
Andrew Mawson

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