SWMBO has decided that she wants a side/by side American style fridge freezer.
The type she has her eye on requires connection to the cold water supply for the ice maker/water dispenser. Because of the layout of our kitchen the nearest cold water pipes are in the toilet which is on the other side of the wall which the fridge will be located against.
My question is what would be a reasonable charge to tap into the cold water feed to the toilet and run a pipe apprx 6ft, through the wall and connect to the fridge/freezer?
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We purchased a Samsung "side by side" a couple of years ago.
Remember they hardly use any water and the feed pipe is IIRC about 6mm diameter...and pretty long.. You could probably attach it to skirting with cable clips.
Remember the water supply must be rising main. If your loo is running from the header tank then you will have to think again!
BTW having "real time" ice on demand is fantastic.
Because tanked water has been sitting in your loft for a week with a dead pigeon floating in it, which makes poor quality ice cubes.
There must be at least one mains cold supply in the kitchen. Usually any cold tap in the kitchen is mains, but sometimes it is just a small "drinking" tap.
In our family it was myself who wanted one, the following is JME.
Be aware that American sized ones will dwarf your kitchen units. I've got a European sized (IE made smaller to suite a standard European Kitchen) Maytag s/s fridge/freezer and it still seems to be big in the same sense an American car is big. Big on the outside. The doors are chunky and deep (2 1/2" metal + 6" of plastic) but but take up space in the actual cooling /freezing cavities, as a result the freezer won't take some ready meal packages for instance. The icemaker and water dispenser also take up what would otherwise be useful space in the freezer.
Another bit of a surprise we got is that our model at least doesn't attempt to chill the water it dispenses. It's at room temperature. It's easy to dump ice cubes into it though, but not quite the same thing. One last negative point, the plastic pipes taint the water. I think they get bugs growing on the inside surfaces of the plastic pipes and should really be flushed through from time to time with some kind of sterilising agent like a pub uses to clean it's lines. "Kojak" style water coolers in offices also have to be regularly sanitized.
Nothing in the instructions about it. Not yet solved that problem.
It's 1-2 hours labour and £5-10 of materials. Plumbers charges vary widely, some might make a minimum charge, say half a day.
| > Why must it be rising main? | | Because tanked water has been sitting in your loft for a week with a dead | pigeon floating in it, which makes poor quality ice cubes. | | > Are cold supply on sinks fed from the main or | > can they too be from a header tank? | | There must be at least one mains cold supply in the kitchen. Usually any | cold tap in the kitchen is mains, but sometimes it is just a small | "drinking" tap.
But it is a good idea to take all drinking water direct from the mains. Header tanks can get very grotty inside, traditionally they contained dead rats and pigeon droppings. The modern ones with a lid are much better than the old open topped ones we used to have, but the glass fibre insulation in my loft gets everywhere.
BTW Hot water from a combi boiler is not stored and so can be used for drinking.
We have one. I like a big fridge/freezer, but (with hindsight) my advice would be *don't* get one with water supply. The icemaker takes up a huge amount of foodspace. The water comes out room temp (as another poster already pointed out). I would want to run the tap for a few seconds to get rid of water that's been sitting in the pipe & to get really cool, fresh water. Whilst you can do this from a standard tap/sink, you can't from a fridge. Also, if you have any non-sealed food in the freezer it taints the icecubes. The novelty of pressing the button for ice quickly wears off - how hard is it to get it from an ice-tray!
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