Plasterboard and old ceilings

[Clint Sharp]

OK, I give up. Finally been nagged enough to do something with the kitchen ceiling.

The kitchen is fairly small and it's got an enclosed pipe running across one part of it so it would be ideal to be able to bring the level of the ceiling down to this level (about 3 inches lower).

Do I *really* have to pull down the existing plaster and lath to expose the beams above or can I just pull off the (tiny) loose bits and locate the beams and then batten at right angles to the appropriate level before putting plaster board over it?

Do I need to use fire proof board because it's a kitchen and should I use 9.5, 12.5 or 15mm board?

Final question, do I need a plasterer afterwards or can I just cover it with lining paper and paint it?

Not trying to cut corners unnecessarily but money is rather tight at the moment and I'd rather be able to do this for myself if I can.

[George]

You can cut out the need for battens if you reroute the pipe,much easier,use

12.5mm in the kitchen.

[R D S]

How would you suggest doing it? Locate the wood then attach directly against the old ceiling? Screw or nails?

Ta.

[stuart noble]

You could just fix plasterboard through the old plaster without battens. I'm pretty sure that's what a plasterer would do.

Might be easier to just move the pipe, especially if you have easy access from above

[meow2222]

9mm PB is fine for a false ceiling, on a light timber frame, eg 2x2. You can fix it to existing ceiling or have it free floating - the former is easier, the later gives extra noise reduction.

No need to pull anything existing down. Final treatment can be plaster skim, filled joints or paper lining, upto you. Filling is cheapest. Fireproof board, no, basic PB is fireproof already.

However what you propose seems like a lot of work, cant you reroute the pipe?

Stuart Noble:

I can picture it now, a layer of PB hanging on 6" screws screwed only half way in :)

NT

[Clint Sharp]

In message , George writes

Re-Routing the pipe is going to be 'A bugger' (TM) because the floor above has been covered in ply to facilitate the laying of tiles.

[Clint Sharp]

In message , stuart noble writes

You're probably right but I mentioned that the ceiling wasn't level already so it'd make life difficult trying to get it level.

No easy access plus I suspect the pipe may be a gas pipe so I'd not be happy doing it myself.

[Clint Sharp]

In message , [e-mail] writes

Frame seems the way to go, I'd fix to the walls and then have the frame running at right angles and fixed to the beams above, shimming to make level. 9mm it shall be. Another reason for doing that would be that it'd make recessing lights very easy.

Filled joints I think, I can manage to level a simple straight line with plaster.

OK, that's good.

Nope. See earlier replies, no access from above and I think it may be gas anyway (I'll find out, I'm going to remove the box around it next weekend)

Sounds lovely, I can just imagine SWMBO's reaction when she finds her nice new ceiling on top of the fridge! I'll check that the tent's OK before I do that.

[George]

What are doing in uk.d-i-y then?

[meow2222]

timber frame, eg 2x2.

heh. Just one last thing, I'd use smaller boards than 4x8 for overhead work.

NT

[Clint Sharp]

In message , [e-mail] writes

Yeah, already seen the 1.2x2.4 metre boards and went pale at the thought. Thanks to all who replied (sensibly). I'll see if I can post some pics of before, intermediate and after somewhere so people can fold their arms, suck their teeth and say 'You didn't wanna do it that way'.

[meow2222]

ction when she finds her

You could post them on the wiki if you like, then the newer readers will know how to do it.

I dont know if you're familiar with it. In case not,

- to start a page just type the title into the search box

- to include a pic, write: [[image:picture_name.jpg|thumb|any_comment_here]

- when the pic doesnt show, click it to upload it.

NT