Hi All,
As a new member i hope you don't mind me asking 2 questions........ Firstly,can I stick plasterboard straight to the wall without bothering with battons.
Secondly,can i tile onto this plasterboard. Many thanks
Hi All
As a new member i hope you don't mind me asking 2 questions Firstly,can i stick plasterboard to the wall without using battons (using no more nails)
Secondly,can i stick ceramic tiles on said plasterboard. Many thanks in advance Brian
Isn't that basically "dry-lining" ?, sounds very much like the construction in my 10 year old house. A bugger to do anything behind the wall once in situ - e.g. wiring, however, works well it'd seem. Kitchen is like that and tiled.
I used Gripfill (solvent based) to glue 4 8x4 soundbloc plasterboard sheets to my party wall. Just put in a few screws to hold them whilst the Gripfill went off. I did contact Gripfill technical line to ask if it was upto the task and they said yes.
If the wall is lightweight concrete block, you can get nylon nails from Screwfix which you hammer straight through the plasterboard and into the block. Sounds weird but it works really well. You do have to skim the board though, since the heads sit a little proud of the surface.
Alistair
No & Yes. Don't use no more nails (it won't work) use plasterboard adhesive. Comes as a bag of powder - just mix with water & apply blobs by chucking it off a trowel. onto the wall. Push the board onto it using a piece of timber (so you are apply even pressure). Ceramic tiles can go straight onto it.
Try:
Yes, assuming the wall is flat and you use the correct adhesive.
Yes. However, plasterboard disintegrates when wet. Therefore, you must use a good quality adhesive and use a full fill technique so that the entire space behind the tiles is solid adhesive, not just ridges with air gaps that water can penetrate past, soaking the plasterboard.
I only use adhesives that claim suitability for commercial swimming pools. B&Q Value adhesive+grout is not for me.
Christian.
Any reason you don't plaster it instead. It would only need scratch (base) coat, not finish coat if you are going to tile it anyway.
I'm not sure any of the tile adhesives are water-tight, even if they are water-proof. They normally require you to use something like aquapanel rather than plasterboard, or to tank the plasterboard with a waterproofer.
"bronkone7" ,
Yes, but it may be very difficult to get it flat & level. The advantage of battons is the you can pack them to get them flat & level.
If it's level - see above!
Dave
How so? to get it level you just tap it with a hammer in places till it becomes level using a Spirit level. Battons are adding to the work load.
[snip]
So what if, on the second sheet you have a bulge in the wall - not uncommon. If you level it one side, you can't level the other. Third sheet becomes worse.
Dave
Temporarily fit and level the battens, apply basecoat between battens and level off with straight edge. When gone off remove battens and fill the gaps with basecoat. then tile over it. Done.
You've lost me, Bulges? what type of bulges wall bellying in out. what? or do you mean bricks protruding out farther than other bricks.
If you generously apply a good spot of plaster mix on the board this should overide any obtrusions on the wall. You don't paste the stuff on you know you form it like an antill shape then press the board against the wall put a spirit level on it diagonally length ways and tap it in place till it's level.
Use big enough dollops that you *can* level it.
Good point! Some brick work can be inches off in places whcih could never be filled with just a big dollop. You'd need some plaster screeds every 600mm then the adhesive goes onto that. Still less work than all that drilling and plugging etc.
I'd use a 2 x 1 batten the length of the area to be boarded to check for high spots. You could then do the bit with the biggest bulge first and line everything else up to that.
Yes, in a previous house my builder used adhesive to put one layer of plasterboard on each side of the 70mm plaster "squares" (carreaux de platre), for soundproofing bedrooms and bathrooms (it was a new construction). We didn't bother with the walls between livingroom and kitchen for example as it wouldn't serve any purpose.
If you read French the following might be helpful:
Yes of course, just make sure the plasterboard itself is water resistant if you use it in a bathroom. Between my bedroom and my en-suite for example I had in succession:
Bedroom | Std plasterboard | water resistant 70mm plaster "square" | water resistant plasterboard | tiles | Bathroom
And BTW, the usual plaster cracks which you get in new homes with wood batten walls never occurred...
Hi,
I want to plasterboard the walls in my bathroom is there a special plasterboard i need to us and is it practical to use filler for the joints and sand down so it can be painted after or are they better skimmed?
thanks in advance
Mike
If you want to dry line without skimming, then you need taper edge boards. As the name suggests they get a bit thinner toward the edges where they butt together. You then use joint filler (applied with a wide taping knife) and scrim tape to cover the joints. Quick sand and it is then ready for decoration. When done well it can give a very high standard fo finish.
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