Planing a door

[George]

Shouldn't be a problem exchanging it for the CS and no doubt you'll be paying a bit extra towards the CS?

[The Medway Handyman]

You can't buy a sawboard, but you can make one in 5 mins. I carry three different lenghts on the van.

Chances if hitting a nail in a new cheap door is rare, if you did, it would be an 18g brad & a TCT blade/you wont even notice. There are relatively few in a new door anyway.

A sawbord will change your life! :-)

[Dave Liquorice]

Not on any doors I've trimmed. I'd say the bottom timber was not much more than 1" sq orginally.

[Tim S]

Dave coughed up some electrons that declared:

I did. Well, more of a pin or bit of staple...

[Matty F]

What is a "CC"?

[Paul Matthews]

If the door really is hollow at that point, there is not enough wood to plane it. You need a circular saw.

[dom]

My typo for CS - circular saw.

[Paul Matthews]

I've got to support Bruce's comments - Isn't it surprising how your confidene grows after just a few successful jobs, and how a little thought and advice makes an awful lot achievable?

Since buying my first house I have also learnt a lot - I have replaced parts of floors, added ring mains (I do have an electrician as a brother to check what I have done) replaced heating pumps, done bits of plumbing, boxed in pipework, tiled a kitchen etc. At the moment in preparation for decorating I am repairing the corners of walls - the house is dry lined rather than palstered and the corners are "protected" with tape rather than a beading, so after 20 years of life, they are looking a little rough.

Go For It!

Paul.

[Paul Matthews]

Especially as she said what she wanted it for, and they sold her the wrong tool.

[Paul Matthews]

I've taken over a foot off a panelled door...

I had an odd sized door for the under stairs storahe (app 5' IIRC) and was quoted over £400 for a made to fit door, so I went roung B&Q with a tape measure looking at doors, and worked out that a six panelled door with the top two panels cut off, and a trim off the bottom would be a four panelled door that would fit. I had to re-glue a few bits but the door was just fine. I then replaced all the other doors in the house with four panelled doors, and the sapele was history.

[dom]

But just the tool for the OP to use to flay the alive the B&Q idiot that advised her to buy it.

[Paul Matthews]

If this is the only job, get the cheap one, if you see yourself making use of it (once you have one, they are jolly useful, I would probably go with the Makita.

Terribly jagged? take your time, use a guide and don't force the saw and it will need little more than a tidy. Practice on a few bits first before the doors, and remember to support the waste piece as well.

[Paul Matthews]

I must admit that after that link you posted, I am looking at making at least one for myself...

As I also have a small table saw, it should be a doddle..

[The Medway Handyman]

I make mine from a strip of 6mm ply about 150mm wide for the guide and 4mm ply for the base. Glue liberally, screw through from the 4mm into the 6mm, remove screws when glue dry. Just make sure you clean the glue off properly.

________________ ¦_______________¦_____________________ ¦____________________________________¦

This makes a board rigid enough to use but you only lose up to a max 6mm depth of cut. In fact the body of my Makita 5604R just clears the 6mm guide so I don't lose any DOC.

Brilliant things, I don't leave home without one :-)

[Rod]

I made mine out of a strip of engineered wood (or is it bamboo?) flooring for the guide. Lovely clean, smooth, lacquered edges already. Tough. (Scrap section at Wickes.)

[Samantha Booth]

Sorry MH I am struggling with this one. I get a 3 or 4 foot board 150m wide

6mm deep, then glue 4mm board to it, how wide?then the cs sits on the bottom piece using the side of it as a guide?

Having a blonde moment here lol

[dom]

Correct. The magic bit is you then cut the lower board to exactly the correct width when you first run the saw over the top of the lower board, using the edge of the upper board as a guide. That's it. Custom sawboard made.

For ever after, all you then have to do is slap your sawboard down with that edge you just cut on your lower board exactly aligned with wherever you want to cut through on the the job you're doing (the line you want to trim to on your doors in your case).

Dimensions on the sawboard are unimportant, apart from the lower board area being wider than the base of your circular saw for when you do that first "cut to size" to make a sawboard exactly matching your saw.

Explanation with diagrams:

[George]

Sammy Make the sawboard as in the link provided.

Take the door on its flat,draw a pencil line of the amount of wood you need to take off across the door. Place the sawboards edge level with that line and clamp the sawboard to the door. Now just use the sawboards top guide with the CS and you will get a perfect cut line.

The links diagram is self explanetry if you just carefully read and look slowly.

[dennis]

I think that's a bit thin, mines 18 mm ply, I just happened to have a strip left over. Not found a job where I needed that 18 mm on the depth of cut yet. I have a couple of Axminster guide clamps if I do.

Showed it to my brother who is a life long chippy and never used one, now he always uses one.

[The Medway Handyman]

I've three chippys shocked & stunned by the utter simplicity of the thing. - they all wandered off looking for scrap plywood.