According to my Onsite Guide (for Electricians) the maximum hole diameter
should be 0.25 * joist depth. The maximum depth of a notch should be 0.125 *
Holes should b on a centre line in a zone between 0.25 and 0.4 * span of
joist. (This requirement is usually ignored)
Notches on top in a zone between 0.1 and 0.25 * span of joist.(This
requirement is usually ignored)
I haven't read any of the replies as there are to date 38 of them but I
am curiouus to know what the waste is running along and running to.
If you are upstairs and the pipe is run level with the floor or ceiling
then drops away at the wall to the drains below, how much fluid do you
suppose will remain in the level part of the pipe? And what danger or
threat will it pose?
Posted via Mailgate.ORG Server - http://www.Mailgate.ORG
On Sat, 11 Oct 2003 20:45:20 +0000 (UTC), "Michael Mcneil"
I fixed a problem in our loft two days ago which has been there since
the house was built. The bathroom ceiling developed a damp patch.
Problem turned out to be that the joint in the plastic pipe
immediately above the damp patch had never been sealed - the joint was
just pushed together. The pipe ran horizontally across the rafters and
carries no fluid directly - it is the breather pipe that vents to the
roof from the toilet soil stack. The fluid was condensation from the
I solvent welded the joint and the ceiling has dried up.
The moral of the story here is that for the pipe running horizontally
to work then there would be a joint (probably right-angled) at either
end. It may be that one of those joints might not be securely made, or
perhaps fail some time in the future. If that did happen you might
have fluid which seeps out and ruins the ceiling below (or perhaps
causes rot in the joists). And as noted for my problem above, any
moisture within the pipe might not be a direct corelation with what is
being carried - it might just be condensation.
This precisley what happened in my case.
Except instead of a poor joint, the pipe didn't quite make it through
the gable wall, and dripped down INSIDE the wall.
The problem didn't show up till a combination of lots of hot water at
Christmas, and some bloody cold weather, caused the condensation.
If you install a run of waste pipe dead horizontal, it will of course still
drain, and you may not notice any problems for some time, however this is
not a self cleaning gradient and eventually sediments build up on the bottom
of the pipe.
This is what happened to us. The latest incarnation of the bathroom
involved moving the sink from very close to the wall to very far away,
ie the other side of the room! I cut exact sized holes in the middle
(top to bottom) of 4 joists to get the waste out.
Initially I had the waste *pretty much* dead level, but obviously
water collected and stagnated if left for a few days.
The other week I replaced the bath waste with a smart chrome job which
involved re-visiting the sink waste too since they ended up next to
each other, and I noticed I'd put both wastes one brick too high so
water DEFINITELY collected. I took the brick out below the pipe and
got a pretty good drainage slope out of it - boy did a lot of stinkin'
water come out of it :)
Everything's fine now - no more bad water smells in the bathroom.....
Bad smells arising from laying a waste pipe without a fall may not be due to
stagnated water collecting in the pipe. Even if the pipe if full of foul
smelling water, the smell shouldn't enter the room if the trap on the
appliance is intact.
The smell probably arises from the fact that the integrity of the trap is
being compromised by self siphonage due to the waste not being laid with
I should've added that I still haven't reinstalled the toilet after
much umming and ahhing about whether to laminate the floor or not, so
the soil pipe only has a safeway bag gaffa taped over it :)
Now that we've decided to get the floor sanded I need to think of a
way of levelling the bog since the floor slopes enough for the
experience to be rather strange!
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