Piggin Wickes Doors

[Stuart Noble]

All surfactant are water soluble to a degree or they couldn't emulsify the wax in the first place. Hydrophilic/lipophilic balance (HLB) and all that.

[Stuart Noble]

I have them on all my doors and I can assure you that isn't the case. Don't think it out, take a look.

[Andy Dingley]

They leave a small gap at the top. As you're not trying to walk over the top of the frame, it's easy to place this gap in a rebate and so there's no need for a draught.

[<me9]

I've about a 5mm gap above my door, and a small chamfer (5mm x 30mm) on the inner corner of the door. This doesn't show when the door is closed as it is hidden behind the stop bead. It works fine.

[Weatherlawyer]

It's no good just taking a look. FFR: If the door was fitted for rising butts (and IIRC they rise about

1/2" with 4" hinges) the inside top corner will hit the head of the frame 1/4" up at something like 75 degrees closed.

So you have to take 3/8" or so off one corner of the top of the door with them. I think you need to take it out most of the way along one side; that is 3/8" to nothing in some 24" and 3/8" to nothing one face to the other.

I always end up doing them trial and error as the number of times I fit them I have generally forgotten about that trick by the next time.

[Pete C]

Maybe it depends on the type of wood being bought. I often get 1 x

1.5" planed softwood for shelving, there are 4 or 5 places near me that do it. They all vary in price and quality though Wickes are consistently lowest on both. Even so the nearest size I can get from Wickes is 18 x 22 mm which looks a little too thin.

cheers, Pete.

[Rob Morley]

Every door I've ever seen fitted with rising butt hinges is flat and square on top. When hanging the door you set the top of the door to be flush with the frame when the door is open 90 degrees, so there's a gap of 5-6mm at the top when it's closed.

[Stuart Noble]

Exactly.