Paving - levels?

I am planning on doing some paving.

I have an entrance to my garden that will be the guide height - i.e all paving in my garden will have to match up to that level.

I know I can use a tight rope, but I find this stuff a nightmare to use.

Any alternatives so I can plan and see how high the final level will be all over the garden?

When I actually do it, I will just start off and match the existing level and use a spirit level and work from there.

Cheers

Reply to
mo
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Get two glass bell jars, some clear plastic tube, some water and red vegetable dye.

The level in each jar will (slowly) level out, i think this is much more accurate than spirit levels, you can put little marker sticks around the garden and mark the level on them (though it can take hours/days)

It worked for the egyptian pyramids!

But maybe there should be a slight slop on your patio to drain it.

mo wrote:

Reply to
george (dicegeorge)

Water level and wooden pegs (or profiles)?

Reply to
Woodworm

Or just buy a water level ready made

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?_dyncharset=UTF-8&fh_search=water+levelThey just work perfectly.

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

you can get laser levels for very little now, even poundland had some for =A31. Personally I'd rather work with a water pipe, but either would do. Laying out a garden with a spirit level would, I'd expect, produce significant inaccuracy.

NT

Reply to
NT

Wouldn't recommend the laser levels for outside work though. I got a set from Screwfix, and ended up going back and buying the water level. Couldn't see the line unless it was extremely dull!

Reply to
SantaUK

SantaUK wibbled:

No indeed. I have a Stanley self levelling laser and it's a real boon indoors - but until dusk approaches it's nigh on impossible to see outside.

You can get superbright green ones, but they're not cheap.

A rotating red laser would work better than mine though, with the speed set on dead slow.

Reply to
Tim S

string always worked for me.

tow stakes on the ground, tension string between, use long level just touching..if very long sight along string and prop at intermediate places.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Knock in some posts in daylight, set up cheap laser level, level. Wait till dusk. Walk about with felt tip marker marking the level. Wait till morning. Saw off posts at marks.

Anyway, that's what I'd do, 'cos I've got a cheap laser level.

Oh yes, and don't forget the 'fall' to a drain, or you'll be cursing the puddles forever.

R.

Reply to
TheOldFellow

Put reflective tape where you are shining the laser. I've done that and it works.

Reply to
Matty F

Matty F wibbled:

Good tip - I'll try that :)

Reply to
Tim S

But don't forget you probably need planning permission if it goes into a drain these days. You don't if it goes to a soakaway.

Reply to
dennis

Nobody has commented on my belief that a patio shouldnt be level, it should slope slightly away from the house for drainage...

[g]
Reply to
george (dicegeorge)

Only if it goes into a foul drain.

The word 'drain' has a lot wider application than you seem to understand.

This is what WE call a drain:

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Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

The word drain appears to have implications you fail to understand. recent planning changes have been made so that surface run off doesn't get into the drainage system as fast. As I said you may require planning permission to drain paving into a drain.

Reply to
dennis

formatting link
provides some helpful guidance. Eg

"You will not need planning permission if a new or replacement driveway of any size uses permeable (or porous) surfacing which allows water to drain through, such as gravel, permeable concrete block paving or porous asphalt, or if the rainwater is directed to a lawn or border to drain naturally."

Reply to
neverwas

I had a spare 2 metre length of 4x1 to which I duct taped a 15mm block at 1 metre from one end and a 30mm block at the other end. I made some wooden spikes out of some branch cuttings and hammered them into the ground at 1 metre intervals using the spirit level to make sure they had the correct 'fall' for water to drain. If I want a non falling level, I turn it upside down.

Reply to
OG

Note the use of the word 'drain'. Drains are not all drains.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

But what's the case where you don't need a drain at all, as your deeds contain the right to discharge surface water onto the public highway? Hence why our drive slopes away from the drain at the corner of our house, so there can never be pooling against the house wall.

SteveW

Reply to
Steve Walker

But make sure the fall is slight or you can end up with a lot of stuff to remove by the time you get to the furthest point.

Reply to
Stuart Noble

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