patio gravel/slope

Right, I've had three pallets of patio blocks sitting around since last year, and I really must get around to doing something with them...

I'm assuming a layer of sand (about an inch) immediately beneath the blocks (and a layer of weed matting) - then x inches of gravel.

a) What's a good type of gravel to use? ISTR local concrete firm suggesting pea gravel (back when I was going to get this done last year before the cold season hit and I ran out of time) - but I've seen others saying that pea gravel is awful as a bed for patios because it doesn't compact nicely (not to mention that it's not necessarily that cheap).

b) What sort of minimum/maximum thickness is sensible for the gravel? Soil here is quite sandy down to a foot or so, then clay beneath that. I think I've read "somewhere around 4 inches" in multiple places, but the experts might think otherwise :-)

c) I assume I should slope it slightly away from the house to promote water run-off; is there any good rule of thumb for the angle (fall vs. distance)?

One gotcha is that the land also slopes slightly along the side of the house; I think that even without any digging down that I've got a drop of about 8" at the low end. I expect I'll need a bit of retaining wall at this end below the outermost row of patio blocks - will a row of interlocking bricks likely keep the gravel behind them in check, or should I be looking at doing something a bit more substantial (e.g. mortared together, and/or foundation, or using blocks that can be staked into the ground)? cheers

Jules

Reply to
Jules Richardson
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Kerbstones are what I used. Nothing has moved and it was a few years back. You will of course need some sort of edging or the blocks themselves will move. Can you build the ground up so it supports the edge of the paved area? Bill

Reply to
Bill Wright

Also be sure to use sharp sand. Fine sand is displaced in wet weather and comes up the cracks, allowing the blocks to sink.

Reply to
harry

See

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lots of information and advice from experts there. If the site itself doesn't answer your questions then ask there.

Edgar

Reply to
Edgar

I'd have thought you want something that will lock together and compact to a firm base, like MOT1 this side of the pond. Crushed stone straight from the crusher, so 20 or 40mm down to dust, compacted with a vibraplate.

Yep:

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Really for a drive than patio but you still need a good base.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

On Tuesday 14 May 2013 10:16 Dave Liquorice wrote in uk.d-i-y:

I agree. Pea shingle is noted for being able to move easily - the last thing you wnat for hardcore. This is why pea shingle is poured around drain pipes

- to allow them to be free of ground movement.

Indeed. Even if a patio will not see much load, ants are little buggers at rearranging what's under the flags if it's just soil and sand. They love it

- roofed house I suppose...

3" of MOT/ballast whacked down should be enough for light use.
Reply to
Tim Watts

Ants? What are they, haven't got ants aroud here. And with Jules's winters being harder than ours he might not have them either...

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

None. Do it properly with well compacted "hard core", see

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for the correct terminology.

MBQ

Reply to
Man at B&Q

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