Quick one:
hack about as you fancy...
Quick one:
hack about as you fancy...
Just a minor typo - under "How to"
packed out level). Screw that to you batten.
should be "...to your batten."
Regards -
In article , John Rumm writes
Looks good, nice sketches.
I used a bit wider and thinner timber, prob 75 x 15mm, when I did this as I thought it gave more support to the patch and lessened the risk of the filling cracking up.
Thicknesses not thickness's It's [it is] not its.
Bill
Pedant on
9.5mm thick not 9mmPedant off
Looks good
Jim K
Yes - Google Sketchup?
I've done this a different way (but I'm usually reskimming afterwards). Recut the edges with a bevel (picture-frame style) on the hole, and matching on the patch piece (except it will probably be small enough to push right through, particularly if it's the piece which came out). Paste the cut edges with bonding coat plaster. Position the patch in the hole, but proud of the surface. Put a thin straight edge (such as a steel ruler on edge) across the patch in both directions, and press the patch back into place until it's perfectly flush with the existing wall face, or if you are going to reskim just the patch, continue until it's evenly 2mm behind the existing wall face. Let the bonding coat start going off so the patch isn't going to move anymore, and then clean off any which is proud of the surface.
There is a variation of this technique that I sometimes use when making an access hole with a multimaster...
Do your plunge cuts at 45 degrees to the surface - leaning out from the edge of the hole on each side. This creates a tapered plug that does not fit right through the hole, but will sit in it just a little below finish surface. One can then glue that back into position with pretty much anything (no more nails / decorators caulk both work well). But using a reasonable thickness of gloop, one can set the depth of the plug either flush or below depending on need.
I have added some more pictures and a description of this technique as well now.
I like it;-)
Jim K
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