Painting lead?

Hi All,

I need to paint a lead keel weight on a RC racing model yacht.

It came with a sort of plastic skin over the lead 'bulb' it but it's become torn (on some underwater obstruction).

I can either try to prime it with something then apply a couple of layers of white polyurethane paint or possibly cover it in a skin of thin fibreglass tissue (to form a sort of independent skin) then fill / paint that?

All the best ..

T i m

Reply to
T i m
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Epoxy paint? or runny (warmed) Araldite followed by ordinary paint?

Reply to
John Stumbles

Hi John and thanks for that ;-)

I'm not sure *if* lead can be painted because of surface oxidization (or whatever) and hence the idea of a fibreglass (or Araldite) skin?

If I found a suitable lead 'primer' that would let me apply a conventional spray filler_primer and topcoat etc it just might make it easier to apply?

If I went along the Araldite track, do you think it would matter if it was the genuine 24hr stuff or would a generic "5 min epoxy" be ok (the harder the skin was to form the better) ?

All the best ..

T i m

Reply to
T i m

Google yields the following on painting lead:

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be accurate. After all they paint lead soldiers. I'd give a small tin of a metal paint a whirl, or failing that a specialist marine coating ( some of which are epoxy-based)

Reply to
Coherers

In message , Coherers writes

Why does the OP actually need to paint the keel?

It's underwater and hidden, it doesn't suffer corrosion, it just sits there out of view

Reply to
geoff

RC model racing yachts tend to be removed from the water rather more often than full sized ones.

Reply to
Ian Stirling

Thanks for that. I did Google it but just found stuff on the risks of lead in paint etc...;-(

It coveres the prep but I'm not sure what to do from this point though:

  1. Paint the pipes with your choice of paint (see Related eHows).

Did you find the related eHow?

All the best ..

T i m

Reply to
T i m

I'd give a small tin

Sorry, forgot to ref this bit. That's a good idea (especially as it's sort of a marine use).

Cheers ..

T i m

Reply to
T i m

Good question and good answer!

Also, the class of yacht we race is the "RC Laser" and it's dimensions / finish are very strictly inforced. This even extends to 'decoration' only being in the form of stickers / PVC tape and sails / rigging being from the one maker etc etc.

The lead bulb was covered in a thick flexible plastic coating possibly something like the texture and thickness of a plastic football. Removing the coating (because it was torn) reduces the diameter of this 'bulb' by about 3mm (in 50 mm overall).

If it was left as is it would have three effects:

1) The surface finish on the lead is not as smooth as that of the plastic and may have more drag (disadvantage).

2) The reduced diameter will have less drag (advantage, but unable to determine that it is equal to option 1 )

3) The obvious lead colour would make it stand out like a sore thumb and I could easily get a 'protest'.

So, to keep within the 'spirit' (more than rules as such) of the class I would like to make up the size and finish to that 'as supplied' (a replacement fin / keel is quite expensive)

There's nothing like winning when all the boats are as equal as possible ;-)

All the best ..

T i m

p.s. My first thought was to provide a 'key' to the lead (suitable primer). Then to build up the size (filler?). Then a smooth (white) surface finish.

Reply to
T i m

No, probably never got written...

If it is a small lead keel, I'd try a tin of Humbrol enamel. I've used that on metal before with success.....

Reply to
Coherers

In message , Coherers writes

If it is to be used in water containing wildlife such as fish, are there not restrictions on the type of paint you can use?

Reply to
geoff

Doh!

Ok, another idea .. (thanks)

Good thought Geoff. I'm told the lake we normally use is full of fish. In fact they are rounded up, taken out and counted twice a year! (True).

I'll have to make sure I don't use any TBF antifouling (or whatever it was called) then. ;-(

All the best ..

T i m

Reply to
T i m

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