In my 'old days' a blow torch, primus type was the only thing that really did the business. I believe a hot air gun is actually much easier, safer and effective. Careful what you inhale.
I have found that a hot air gun is only satisfactory indoors, out doors the slightest breeze seems to render them infective. I prefer a gas one operated off a large re-fillable bottle.
C1900 woodwork here mainly with thick brittle paint on[1]. I use the hot air gun method with a lot of ventilation, hand and breathing protection and then clean off the residue using wire wool and paint stripper. It's a while since I bought stripper but on a pro recommendation I used Nitromors Craftsmans mix (yellow tin) which does not have the goop of regular stuff (it's a very slightly thickened liquid) and was about
30quid a gallon. Reports here suggest that formulations have changed but I see that Craftsmans appears to be still available but at 40quid a gallon although I know that that source will haggle and a few sources are down to 35.
Now that I've used the thin stuff I wont go back to stuff with goop so wouldn't be inclined to use the B&Q stuff. I did try before and it would prob be ok for just removing post gun residue but don't know about using it for anything more.
If you have to leave stripper on for a while to penetrate a few layers then apply pvc cling film (marked as suitable for all foods) over the top to reduce evaporation of volatiles.
[1] Probably some lead based in there among the layers which is ok as long as the gun is used to soften only and it doesn't get to the smoking/charring stage. Proper mask and all the windows open essential.
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