Some advice please
I am about to install an AEG Induction Hob and AEG Built In Double Ove on opposite sides of the room. I currently have a 40amp connection to my existing cooker.My questio is can I add a junction (ie split the cable in the loft) and run it t the new hob
-- Gramps
when you say "in the loft", do you mean you live in a bungalow and the cooker cable is being run above the ceiling ?
Sorry,I should have mentioned I live in a Bungalow.One other thing do have to have 40amps for the hob or can I use 13amp. Thank
-- Gramps
You /might/ just get away with running an electric OVEN off a 13 amp socket but not a hob :-
"Miele KM464 Ceramic Hob 4 Hi-light Ceramic Cooking Zones" 2 x 1.2kW 1 x 2.2kW 1 x 1.8kW Total 6.4KW
240 volts / 6400 watts / = 27 amps----------
13 amps x 240 volts = 3.12 KW maxI would split the 40 amp supply in the loft and fit a second switched cooker spur on the other side of the room. (but I'm NOT a qualified electrician)
Jeremy
If the hob or oven can be run off a 13 amp socket, it will come with a lead and plug. However, electric hobs are usually near the 13 amp limit with just the one or two elements, and most have four.
I have heard of high street shop "experts" suggesting this was an option ...
I have a persistent childhood memory of my mother's industrial scale (4 kids) laundry sessions with a Hoover "Tanglematic" deluxe twintub. There was an interlock to prevent you operating the element and motor at the same time but it didn't stop my dad having to replace the yellowing fishy-smelling plug on a regular basis.
Jeremy
No-one's suggesting the Original Poster should run their hob off a 13A plug and socket.
"Hardwiring" both hob and oven to the existing cooker circuit is indeed the Right Answer. 40A-rated junction boxes aren't easy to find, though: one kinda-reasonable accessory to use for the job is a cooker connection outlet.
We've been through a number of these 'separate oven and hob' threads in the last year or so. The typical rating of ovens makes it possible to hardwire them through a Fused Connection Unit (FCU), fused at 13A, on an existing cooker radial circuit with an protective device rating of 30,
32, or 40A, and cable to suit. There's a remaining practical problem with fitting - in the worst case - two 10mmsq cables into the Supply side of an FCU's terminals, and we've established that it's OK to use 4mmsq as a short, 'unfused' branch from the main radial - for instance, connecting into the cooker control switch. ('OK' because the oven here can't overload the cable, and the fuse/MCB for the whole circuit provides fault protection for the smaller cable, provided it's only a short (2-3m) length.It's the hob that's harder. You can't use a conventional FCU, as 13A is too low a rating for the hob's peak load. 'In practice' it's usually OK to run the hob right off the existing cooker circuit, and OK (by the same reasoning as for the oven) to wire a final short 'tail' in 4mmsq is the terminals won't accomodate the existing cooker-circuit wiring. The problem comes if the hob manufacturer's instructions state it ought to have a 20A protective device, as many Euro-import ones to. To comply with that, you either end up running a new 20A radial, or running the oven off the kitchen ring (rarely the best of ideas) and fusing the cooker radial down to 20A. Fitting a small (2-way) CU onto the existing cooker circuit is one other solution, but usually aesthetically awful. Then there's the option of ignoring the manufacturer's strictures - easier to do if the cooker circuit device is 30A or 32A than if it's 40A as in this case.
(Oh, and in this case the OP mentions that the hob and oven will end up at different ands of the kitchen. In this case both need a separate isolator - it's permitted to use a single isolator for both only if they're each within 2m of the isolator, if I remember correctly. So a new FCU for the oven and existing switch for hob would be one OK setup...)
As to your old family plug: for higher-current loads, hardwiring is preferable, but a decent-quality plug and socket, with the connections properly tightened (in the socket too - did your dad ever venture into the back of the socket?), should supply the full 13A without running more than warm. Poorly-made sockets, el-cheapo plugs, tinned-end flexes
- all these contribute to higher-resistance and thus higher-heating connections.
Oops ! - sorry if it sounded like I was suggesting that - no, this was a long time ago .....
Thinking about it that's almost what I have at home - a gas hob and the biggest combi oven I could find - which in certain combinations must get close to the full 13 amps.
I forgot about that. I've used my redundant cooker feed to drive a mini ring main in my kitchen (30 amp trip), but must have used a 30 amp box.
Haven't I read somewhere that the square pins of the UK plug makes the scockets difficult to get right ?
Jeremy
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